A lifetime of Islands: October 2011

Monday 10 October 2011

Island 156 - Ard Thunga, Sutherland

Ard Thunga, like its neighbour Eilean Thunga, is linked to the mainland by the Kyle of Tongue Causeway/Bridge and has been since 1971. It is very flat and has a car park and a litter bin and the remains of an old building. In September 2011 I walked to it across the causeway, while staying in the excellent Tongue Youth Hostel, which is situated at the east end of the causeway.

Car Park and wheelie bin - looking towards the east

Remains of an old building - looking south west

This was the last new island of my holiday. In 8 days I had visited 25 islands, of which 22 were new to me. You can have too much of a good thing, so it was time to stop island collecting for a few months.

Island 155 - Eilean Thunga/ Tongue Island, Sutherland

Eilean Thunga is a flat and unremarkable island located in the Kyle of Tongue. Since 1971 when a ferry was replaced by a causeway/bridge it has been linked to the mainland on the east and the west. The crossing carries the A838. The bridge and causeway were built by Sir Alexander Gibb and Partners. I have crossed the causeway several times in previous years but never noticed this island! I even spent quite a while looking for a geocache in a very large pile of rocks several years ago.

Plaque commemorating the opening of the Kyle of Tongue Crossing in 1971

Eilean Thunga - picnic table

Unite Hope Project Angel on Eilean Thunga
This is one of 49 "peace angels" gifted by a Swedish organisations to various places around the world. It was presented to the communities of Melness, Tongue and Skerray in 2014.

Wednesday 5 October 2011

Island 154 - Eilean na h-Alteig, Oldshoremore, Sutherland

Eilean na h-Alteig was a bonus island for me. While I was waiting for the Handa Island Ferry earlier in the day I got my OS map out and planned my route north when this island caught my eye. Low tide was mid afternoon, which was perfectly timed. However on several previous occasions I have got to tidal islands that look accessible on the map only to find that it is soft mud or acres of slippery seaweed that separate them from the mainland or that they are only accessible on a spring tide. This island is a short walk across sand, boulders and larger rocks with not very much seaweed. The island is covered in short grass and heather. The land rises from near sea level on the north side to cliffs of no more than about 20 metres on the southern side.

The beach at Oldshoremore is gorgeous - golden sand. There is a car park at the south east end of the bay.

Even Highland cattle enjoy a day out at the seaside! Oldshoremore Beach

Eilean na h-Alteig from the graveyard

On Eilean na h-Alteig looking towards Bagh a Phollain

On Eilean na h-Alteig looking south eastwards

Oldshoremore Beach from Eilean na h-Alteig

Island 153 - Handa Island, Sutherland

Handa Island is owned by Dr Jean Balfour but it has been managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust since 1991. Between 1961 and 1991 it was managed by the RSPB and it is best known for its seabird colonies. Nearly 100,000 seabirds nest on the island each year. However by the time I visited at the beginning of September there were only fulmars and skuas and a few gulls to be seen. However the cliffs themselves are stunning in their own right.

Handa Island is accessible by a passenger ferry from the hamlet of Tarbet from the end of March to the end of August. The narrow road to Tarbet meets the A894 about halfway between Scourie and Laxford Bridge. When I visited in 2011 the charge was £10 for adults and £5 for children. Dogs are not allowed on the island and there are no toilets.

Geologically Handa is composed of Torridonian sandstone. This has weathered to leave horizontal ledges, which are ideal if you are a seabird looking for somewhere to nest.

Ruined Cottage

Until 1848 when the potato crop failed 60 people in 8 families lived on Handa in stone cottages in the SE of the island. They grew oats and potatoes, kept animals and collected seabirds and their eggs and shellfish from the beaches. By 1851 they had all left, mainly emigrating to America.

The remains of a graveyard can be seen in the SE of the island outside the information hut. It was probably used to bury people from the mainland at a time when wolves were still roaming wild.

Great Stack

Boardwalk across the island

This is the longest boardwalk I have ever seen. Most of the path from the old village to the north coast and along the south coast is boardwalk across the heather covered boggy ground both to protect the fragile environment and to prevent visitors from getting very wet feet!

Cliffs at Puffin Bay

The cliffs on the north coast are about 85 metres high. The highest point on the island is Sithean Mor at 123 metres. In the breeding season there are thousands of guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and puffins to be seen. The whole island is an SSSI.

Rats were a problem to ground nesting birds like puffins but they were eradicated from the island in 1997.