Monday, 21 March 2011

Island 53 - Great Island, County Cork

Cobh is an attractive and very interesting town on Great Island.  It is a port and was the departure point, firstly for convicts being transported to the West Indies and Australia, and later for millions of Irish people emigrating to North America at the time of the Great Famine and later, so it must have been a sad place in its time.  It was called Queenstown from 1849 to 1922 in honour of Queen Victoria, who paid a visit on 2nd August 1849.  Nowadays the passenger traffic is in the reverse direction: huge cruise ships dock at Cobh and bring hundreds of visitors into the town.
 
Phoenician traders called into Cobh to swap their wine and silk for wood over 2,000 years ago.  The Greek astronomer/geographer/mathematician Ptolemy called Cork Harbour "Dabrona".  However Cobh was not developed as a town until after 1750 when it began to be used by the British navy.  Cork Harbour is a huge safe harbour.  By the early 20th century Cobh had developed as a holiday destination for the citizens of Cork.
 
The history of emigration from Cobh is told at the Queenstown Story, which is housed in part of the old railway station.  The town is still served by a railway line but the current railway station is located to the west of the old one.
 
A Titanic Experience visitor attraction is housed in the old White Star Line Offices on the waterfront.  Queenstown was the last port of call for the Titanic in April 1912. 123 people boarded the ship there and 79 of them died in the disaster. In 2013 a Titanic Memorial Garden was opened to the east of the town centre, overlooking the spot where the Titanic was anchored.  There is a glass wall, which is inscribed with the names of the 123 people who boarded the ship at Queenstown.  There is also a memorial stone to Bruce Ismay, the Chairman of the White Star Line, who survived the sinking.
 
There is also a Cobh Museum, which is housed in an old church to the west of the town centre.  I haven't visited it yet - maybe next time. 
 
The island has a tennis club in Cobh, a riding centre at Ballywilliam, a golf course on the western side of the island and a sailing/powerboat club at the eastern end.
 
Much of the Great Island is rural and farmed.  At the south eastern end are Marlogue Woods, where there is a car park, picnic site and some marked walking trails.  The site is managed by Coillte.
 
Cuskinny Marsh Nature Reserve, which is managed by Birdlife Ireland, is located in the centre of the south coast of the island.  There is also a beach as Cuskinny.
 
Lusitania Memorial
This was begun by Jerome Connor and completed after his death by Donal Murphy
The Lusitania was sunk by a German U-boat off the Old Head of Kinsale on 7th May 1915 1,198 people died and the 764 survivors were brought ashore in Cobh.  169 of the bodies that were recovered are buried in Clonmel Cemetery on the northern edge of Cobh, in three mass graves and some private ones.  The Old Graveyard around the roofless church of St John the Baptist also contains British military graves and those of drowned sailors.
 
One of the Mass Graves for victims from the Sinking of the Lusitania
 
Lusitania Memorial in Clonmel Cemetery
 
Oldest grave in Clonmel Cemetery - Step(h)en Towse who died in 1698
 
St Benedict's Priory Bible Garden with St Colman's Cathedral in the background  
Building work on the cathedral started in 1868 but it was not completed until 1915 when work on the spire was finished.  It is built in the French Gothic style. It houses a 49 bell carillon, which is the largest in the British Isles.
 
St Colman's Cathedral

St Colman's Cathedral
 
St Colman's Cathedral
 
St Benedict's Priory Bible Garden
 
Titanic Memorial, Cobh
 
Titanic Mural
This was painted to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the disaster

Titanic Mural

Queenstown Story in the Old Railway Station

Annie Moore Statue outside the Old Railway Station
Annie Moore was the first immigrant to be processed at Ellis Island in New York Harbour on 1st January 1892, having left Cobh on December 20th 1891 with her two brothers on the ship SS Nevada.

Colourful buildings in Cobh

Sonia O'Sullivan's Statue
 
The runner Sonia O'Sullivan was born in Cobh in 1969 and began her running career with a club on Great Island.  She won a gold medal in the 5000 metres at the 1995 World Athletics Championships. She won silver medals in the 5000 metres at the Sydney Olympic Games in 2000 and in the 1500 metres at the 1993 World Championships. She also won 3 European Championship gold medals and two World Cross-Country Championship gold medals.  A statue of her on the waterfront in the centre of Cobh was unveiled in September 2015.



Old White Star Line Offices - now the Titanic Experience
 
Cobh Waterfront with large cruise ship docked
 
Bandstand in Kennedy Park
 
Old Methodist Church, Cobh
 
Belvelly Martello Tower
 
West View, known as the Deck of Cards
 
 Deck of Cards Close Up
 
Cobh Library in Market House

Island 52 - Fota or Foaty Island, County Cork

Fota or Foaty Island is a small island in Cork Harbour to the north of Great Island.  It is no longer a true island, as the area that used to be water separating it from the mainland on the north eastern side of the island has been closed off, drained and is now dry land.  It can be accessed by road from the main N25 Cork to Midleton road and there is also a railway station.

Philip de Barry arrived in Ireland from Wales as part of the Norman Invasion in the 1160s-1170s.  Fota Island was the private home of the Smith-Barry family for around 800 years until it was sold to University College Cork in 1975 after the death of the last member of the family. 

Fota Island Resort is a hotel with spa facilities and a golf course.  

Fota House Arboretum and Gardens are open to the public from mid-March until the end of September each year.  It is currently managed by the Irish Heritage Trust.  It was originally a hunting lodge but the current regency mansion was built in the 1820s and at this time it became the Smith-Barry family's main residence.

Fota Wildlife Park opened in 1983.  It is part of the Zoological Society of Ireland and is visited by about 440,000 people each year.  Its core values are conservation, education, research and entertainment.  The animals they have include Asiatic lions, giraffes, tapirs, kangaroos, zebras, lemurs, European bison, rhinos, wallabies, gibbons, Humboldt penguins, capybaras, emus, various monkeys, flamingos and cheetahs.

 Entrance to Fota Island Resort
 Entrance to Fota Resort
 
 Fota Island Resort Sign
 
 Entrance to Fota House, Arboretum, Gardens and Wildlife Park
 
Fota Island from Great Island at low tide

Saturday, 19 March 2011

Island 51 - St Martins, Isles of Scilly

St Martins has a population of around 140.  There are 3 main settlements on the island - the imaginatively titled Higher, Middle and Low Towns.  There is one pub (the Seven Stones Inn), one hotel, a couple of café/tea gardens and an excellent bakery.  

There are 2 churches on St Martins - Anglican and Methodist.  The Anglican church was built in 1683 and rebuilt in 1866 after it was damaged by lightning.  The Methodist chapel at Higher Town was built in 1845.

In 1989 a 3 foot high stone with what seems to be a face carved on it, was found on Chapel Down, where the remains of a medieval chapel are also located.  There is a Bronze Age burial chamber on Cruther's Hill.  

Kelp was burnt on the island from the late 17th century to the mid 19th century to produce soda ash.  This was exported to the mainland for glass making.  In 1834 Augustus Smith leased all of the Isles of Scilly from the Duchy of Cornwall.  He introduced modern farming methods, including flower growing.  This is still continued on a small scale.  The small fields are surrounded by shelterbelt hedges of euonymus and pittosporum.

I visited St Martin's for the day in March 2002 and 2003 and returned again in March 2014.  When I visited in the middle of March 2014 all the cafes, the pub and the hotel were closed either permanently or because the summer season hadn't started.  However the excellent shop was open, which was just as well, as I needed to buy some plasters, having caught my thumb on a sharp piece of wire on a gate.

Visiting St Martin's in mid-March proved to be more difficult than I thought it would be, as only one visitors' boat was running from St Mary's and they wouldn't go to St Martin's, as none of the cafes or the pub were open.  The lady in the Tourist Information Centre in Hugh Town was very doubtful when I asked about visiting St Martin's.  However she did eventually give me the telephone number of the man who runs the St Martin's Boat Service for the residents of St Martin's.  However when I rang him he said he wasn't coming across to St Mary's again until the afternoon and there wouldn't be time that day for a day trip but to ring him the following day.  A few minutes later while I was standing on the quay at Hugh Town wondering whether to go to St Agnes for the second time in a few days or to walk round the coast of St Mary's for a second time, a St Martin's Boat Services boat arrived and tied up.  I asked the man on it if it was possible to visit St Martin's that day and first of all he quoted me £42 for a private charter, which I declined but then he said if I came back at 11.30 am (it was 10 am at this point) he was going anyway to fetch someone, so I could go for £6 each way and could come back at 4pm.  I agreed to this and came back at 11.30.  I waited for a few minutes and then the man appeared and led me to a Bryher Boat.  It turned out that after I had spoken to him he realised that one of his RIB inflatable compartments had been punctured and the boat therefore wasn't usable.  He had a timetabled list of people he had to transport to or from St Martin's during the day and the man from Bryher Boats was helping him out.  I was dropped off at Lower Town Quay, which was deserted, as the adjacent hotel is currently closed.  At this point I hoped he would remember to come back at 4pm to collect me from Higher Town Quay.  I needn't have worried, as he had about a dozen people to transport from St Mary's to St Martin's at 4pm, although I was the only one making the return journey to St Mary's.  It was quite a lumpy journey back, as it was a very windy day but the boat went so fast that we were back in Hugh Town in about 15 minutes.

Higher Town

Daymark at St Martin's Head
This granite daymark was erected in 1683 by Thomas Ekins.  It  is 6.4 metres high.

Daymark and trig point

Daymark

Trigpoint at the Daymark

 Great Bay, St Martin's looking east towards the Daymark

 Higher Town Bay, St Martin's

 Chapel Down and the Daymark from Burnt Hill

 Great Bay, St Martin's looking north

Great Bay - looking north towards White Island

St Martin's Anglican Church, Higher Town 

Looking up towards Higher Town
 - you can see all the tiny flower growing fields divided up by hedges grown as windbreaks

 St Martins on the Isle Hotel
 - it closed down in 2013 and was still closed when I visited in March 2014

Seahorse at Lower Town Quay

Great Bay

Higher Town

Lower Town Beach looking east

Higher Town

Moon sculpture by Luke Jerram

Severn Stones Inn sign

Island 49 - St Agnes, Isles of Scilly

Until a few 1,000 years ago St Agnes was permanently joined to Gugh and Annet but then the sea levels rose.  It is still linked to Gugh at low tide.  St Agnes has been occupied since the Bronze Age and there are some chambered tombs on the island from this period.   St Warna's Well, which is the only holy well on the Isles of Scilly, dates from the Iron Age.

Like the rest of Scilly, the island is currently owned by the Duchy of Cornwall.  In the past the residents made a living by farming, fishing and salvaging from shipwrecks but now tourism is now the main source of employment.  In 1841 the population was 243 but by 2001 this had declined to 73.

In 1707 Sir Cloudesley Shovell (what a wonderful name!) was in charge of a fleet of 21 ships when HMS Firebrand foundered in Smith Sound.  300 sailors died and a few survived.

St Agnes has a lighthouse in the middle of the island.  It was built by Trinity House in 1680 but is no longer in use and has been converted into a house.  It was replaced in 1910 by the Peninnis Lighthouse on St Marys.  

Troy Town Pebble Maze
This spiral pebble maze at Camper Dizzle near Troy Town was possibly made by a lighthouse keeper called Amor Clarke in 1795 but it may be much older than that. 

The only pub on the island is the Turks Head. There no hotel but there is a post office and general store, several guesthouses and self-catering cottages and flats and a campsite.

There is a footpath, which runs round the perimeter of the island.



The west coast of the island is littered with granite boulders

 Coastguard Cottages

I'm not sure what an iron fireplace is doing in this wall!

 Lighthouse with Echiums
 

Nag's Head
The right hand end of this natural granite standing stone is supposed to look like a horse's head and is known locally as the Nag's Head.

West coast
 
Periglis, St Agnes: looking towards Burnt Island and Tins Walbert

 Stained glass window in St Agnes' Church

Stained glass window in the church

Stained glass window in St Agnes' Church


Church

 
St Agnes' Church
The current church, which is dedicated to St Agnes, was built in the 19th century to replace an earlier one, which had been destroyed in a gale. 

 Lighthouse
 
Lighthouse

Turk's Head Pub

Wood at The Parsonage

Nag's Head