A lifetime of Islands: Island 127, Bardsey, Lleyn Peninsula, Wales

Bardsey is a gem of an island and is definitely in my top 10 islands.

It is located 2 miles west of the end of the Llyn Peninsula and is known in Welsh as Ynys Enlli (the island of the tides). It was at one time divided into 8 or 9 farms. It is still farmed but many of the former farmhouses are available for holiday lets on a self-catering basis. The island is 1.5 miles long by just over half a mile wide at its widest part. There is no food shop on the island but there are a couple of craft shops, a small café at the farmhouse and a few refreshments are on sale at the Observatory Shop.

It can be reached by a day trip from Port Meudwy near Aberdaron. 2 companies run ferries. Details can be found here: http://www.bardsey.org/english/day_trips/day_trips.htm

I travelled with Bardsey Boat Trips. The first date I booked was cancelled due to bad weather but was rescheduled for a few days later when the weather was just perfect - calm and sunny. The boat sails into a metal cage and is then hauled up the beach by a tractor. It felt very odd starting the boat trip on the boat but on dry land. On the way back to Port Meudwy the tide was so low that we had to get into a dinghy and travel out in that to the main ferry. We had about 4 hours on the island, which was long enough to explore it all but didn't leave much time for 'standing and staring'.

Most of the houses on the island were built in the 1870s by Lord Newborough when he owned the island in the 19th century. In 1901 the population was around 100 but it declined sharply after 1925 when most of the people moved away to the mainland in search of an easier life. Bardsey passed through successive generations the Newborough family until 1972 when it was sold to Lord Cowrday, who in turn sold it to the Bardsey Island Trust in 1979.

In 1998 it was discovered that the apple tree growing against the side of one of the farmhouses - Plas Bach - was unique. It has been named the Bardsey Apple.

A square lighthouse - very unusual

The lighthouse was completed in 1821 and is 30 metres tall

Remains of St Mary's Abbey

Bardsey has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. St Cadfan came from Brittany to establish a monastery on Bardsey in the 6th century. St Mary's Abbey, which was founded by Augustinian canons in the 13th Century, is on the site of the 6th Century chapel. It was occupied until the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII in 1537. Another chapel was built nearby in 1875 and is still functioning as such. It is reputed that 20,000 saints are buried on Bardsey. In Medieval times 3 pilgrimages to Bardsey were said to equal one to Rome.

The Lighthouse is not open to the public

South end of the island from the top of the Mountain

North end of the island from halfway up the Mountain

The Mountain is 167 metres above sea level. There are numerous paths up it and the views from the top make it a worthwhile walk.

South end of the island looking north towards The Mountain

I saw some choughs on the Mountain and on the way back to the mainland on the ferry we sailed up the east coast of the island and saw puffins, razorbills and guillemots. The island is also home to thousands of breeding Manx shearwaters but they only come back to their burrows on the Mountain under cover of darkness.

The Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory has been in existence since 1953. The observatory is based at Cristin in the middle of the island.

There were dozens of Atlantic grey seals lying on the beach at rocks at Yr Honnllwyn as we arrived.

I spent a lovely day on the island soaking up the peace and tranquillity. I will be back.