Tuesday, 24 May 2011

Island 111 - Egilsay, Orkney

Egilsay is accessible by the same vehicle ferry that serves Rousay and Wyre and runs from Tingwall on Mainland Orkney.  However it isn’t really worth taking your car, as there are only 2 short roads on the island and it is small enough to explore on foot.  Egilsay is only home to about 26 people (2011 Census) but, apart from a couple of people who were waving someone off on the ferry we arrived on, we didn’t see anyone at all for the 4 hours we spent on the island. 


St Magnus's Kirk

The main building of interest on the island is St Magnus’s Kirk, which is one of only 2 remaining examples of round towered churches built by the Vikings.  The church was built in honour of Earl Magnus, who was murdered on Egilsay in around 1117 by an axe blow to the head.  It is probably built on the site of an earlier church. 

In the early 12th century Orkney was ruled by  2 Norse earls, who were cousins - Haakon Paulson and Magnus Erlendson.  They quarrelled but a peace conference was arranged on Egilsay on Easter Monday 1117.  Magnus spent the night in the church and the next day Haakon was persuaded by his counsellors to kill Magnus.  He ordered Ofeig, his standard bearer to kill him but he refused, so he ordered his cook Lifolf to do the deed, which he did.  Magnus's body was at first buried at Birsay but after miracles of healing occurred it was moved to the cathedral in Kirkwall, which is dedicated to him.  A centotaph was erected on Egilsay in 1938 on the spot where he was murdered.  
 
The Onziebust RSPB Reserve on the island is in 3 sections.  Wading birds and corncrakes can be seen.  The Loch of the Graand at the southern tip of the island is a good place to watch waders and seals.

Manse Bay
 
We spent most of our time on the island sitting at Manse Bay on the east coast, as it was sheltered from a cold and strong wind and it is a delightful spot.    There is no other shelter on the island for visitors apart from the charmless ferry waiting room.   There is no shop on the island.

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