Island 171 - Colonsay, Inner Hebrides

I spent 2 nights and 2 days on this delightful island at the end of August 2012.

I stayed in the Backpacker's Lodge.  I assumed when I arrived off the Calmac ferry from Oban that the Backpacker's Lodge would be signposted or in the village of Scalasaig but I could see no sign of it.  In the end I found someone to ask and it turned out to be 4 miles away at the north end of the island near Colonsay House up a very rough track.  I was glad I had brought the car!   However I am sure that it would be relatively easy to thumb a lift if you needed to.  There is plenty of accommodation on the island - a hotel, B&Bs and self-catering, in addition to the Backpacker's Lodge.

The island is probably named after St Columba. Colonsay has been inhabited since at least Neolithic times.  In 1882 a Viking ship burial was uncovered in the sand dunes at Kiloran.  The island had a succession of owners until 1700 when it was acquired by the McNeil family.  Their descendants were forced to hand the island over to Lord Strathcona in 1905 in lieu of a debt they owed him. 

Colonsay can be reached by aeroplane from Oban or by car ferry from Oban or in the summer on a Wednesday from Kennacraig on the mainland and from Islay.  All the roads on the island are single track with passing places.  They aren't busy but the road surfaces is appalling in most places, so you won't be able to drive too fast.  Bicycles can be hired on the island.

 Scalasaig from the Monument

 

Scalasaig is the main settlement on the island and the shop, post office, café, microbrewery, doctors' surgery and a book publishing business are located here.  The café is called The Pantry.  The cakes and hot drinks were excellent and very reasonably priced but I thought the main meals were a bit pricey.

 Scalasaig Harbour

View from Dun Ghallain on the west coast

 War Memorial at Scalasaig

 Meall na Suiridhe looking south towards Kiloran Bay

 The Whale to the north of Kiloran Bay 

 - it is difficult to make out in this photo but the stones on the raised beach have been arranged to form the outline of a whale.  He has an old tyre as his eye. His tail is on the left of the photo.

Colonsay and Oronsay Heritage Centre at Port Mor
Free to visit and very interesting.  The islanders are hoping to get funding for a purpose built building.

Sculptured stone at Tobar Oran (St Oran's Well) 
Now located in Colonsay House Gardens, it originally came from the now ruined village of Riasg Buidhe on the east coast of Colonsay

 This scenery is typical of much of Colonsay

 Dun Ghallain at An Aird on the west coast



Dunan nan Nighean on the north east coast

Port Lobh on the west coast

Colonsay Airport

Sculptures at Traigh an Tobair Fhuair

Colonsay Golf Course - 18 holes - please put your fees in the honesty box!

 Traigh an Tobair Fhuair on the west coast

 Calmac Ferry at Scalasaig

Backpacker's Lodge

Colonsay Hotel near Scalasaig

 Colonsay House Gardens

Colonsay House Gardens
The lens came from Rhuvaal Lighthouse on Islay

The gardens of Colonsay House are open to the public on a couple of afternoons a week in the summer.  They are worth a visit but the paths are very muddy in places, so I would recommend walking boots and apart from the area round the house the gardens are a bit neglected and overgrown.  The admission fee in 2012 was £3.  The gardens are famous for their rhododendrons and azaleas, which obviously weren't at their best in late August.  There is a café.  The cakes and lunches looked lovely but were quite expensive, so I just had a coffee.

Colonsay House

The house was built in 1722 by the McNeils.  They planted trees in the Kiloran Valley in the 19th century, which provided shelter for the gardens developed by Lord Strathcona from 1905 onwards.  The main planting in the garden was done after 1930 when the shelter belt of trees was tall enough.

Kiloran Bay looking south

 Kiloran Bay looking north
On the afternoon I visited, this seemed to be the most popular place on the island for visitors.  Carnan Eoin, which is the highest point on the island at 143 metres, can be seen in the distance.

West Coast - looking towards Lower Kilchattan

 The Monument above Scalsaig

  The plaque commemorates the Iron Age hill fort, which can be seen in the distance.  Dun Eibhinn is the most important of several Iron Age hill forts which are located on Colonsay.