A lifetime of Islands: Island 172 - Oronsay, Colonsay, Inner Hebrides, Scotland

There are several islands with the name Oronsay, which means tidal island in Old Norse, although in this case the name may be derived from St Oran, who came to the island from Ireland in 563 AD. St Columba is also said to have come to the island and founded a monastery here. However he moved on to Iona when he realised that he could still see his home country of Ireland from Oronsay.   The Christian missionaries were not the first to visit Oronsay, as there are several Mesolithic shell mounds on the island. Excavations of these have revealed bone and stone tools and midden materials.

This Oronsay, which is also sometimes spelt Oransay, is located immediately to the south of the island of Colonsay in the Inner Hebrides. At low tide it is linked to Colonsay by The Strand. According to the Colonsay website it is accessible for about 2.5 hours either side of low tide but it also says that sometimes it doesn't clear at all if it is a neap tide and a strong wind is blowing. Although Colonsay and Oronsay are only 250 metres or so apart at their closest crossing point, the recommended route is a mile across the sand.

Low tide on the day I wanted to visit was at 10.15, so I got out of bed early and was ready to cross by 8am. However having parked my car at the end of the road I realised that there was still water between me and Oronsay. I set off wearing my walking boots in the hope that the water was just a mirage but half way across The Strand I realised that there was about 300 metres of water to cross. At this point an intrepid family from Letchworth joined me and we debated the best place to cross. It was good to have some company. A couple of people had waded across successfully ahead of us, so after a while we decided to follow them. To avoid ruining my walking boots I put on a pair of crocs and we waded through the cold water, which in places was knee deep.

Not wanting to get stranded we quickly walked the mile or so to the Priory and then down onto the delightful and empty silver sand beach at Port na Luing. I left the family there and went off to 'collect' another island - Dubh Eilean. The heavens decided to open at this point for about 10 minutes, then the sun came out and we were treated to a lovely rainbow.

On our return journey we paused to have a look round the Priory ruins, which are extensive. There was a notice next to the entrance, which said car park. I can't imagine wanting to drive across The Strand but I suppose with a 4x4 it would be possible.

We could probably have spent longer on Oronsay but decided that we would walk straight back across The Strand, which was clearer than when we had crossed earlier but still not dry. I have subsequently read and heard of several people who stayed too long on Oronsay and nearly got cut off by the incoming tide, so was glad had erred on the side of caution.

The current Priory buildings are the remains of the Augustinian Priory founded in 1380, although they are thought to be on the site of the earlier one founded by St Columba. The farm next to the Priory was built by the McNeils with stones taken from the Priory.

There is apparently a sanctuary cross half way across the Strand, although I didn't see it. In the past fugitives from Colonsay who reached the cross could claim immunity from punishment if they stayed on Oronsay for a year and a day. There is also a rock that looks like an elephant's head, at the Oronsay end of the Strand crossing. However I didn't notice this either. I must pay more attention on my next visit.

Oronsay was sold by Lord Strathcona in the 1970s to an American. It was bought by another in the 1980s and is now leased to the RSPB.

The whole of the island of Oronsay is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and Special Protection Area (SPA) for its chough and corncrake populations.   I didn't see any choughs on Oronsay but I encountered a couple at Kiloran on Colonsay.

The island is farmed by the RSPB with a mixed farming regime with cattle and sheep, late cut grass and arable crops grown for corncrake conservation. All other areas are managed for choughs by grazing regimes.

Other important species include breeding waders (lapwings and redshanks), farmland birds (twites, skylarks, linnets) and wintering geese: barnacle geese and Greenland white-fronted geese. Habitats include dune grassland, machair, in-bye grassland and heath/acid grassland.