A lifetime of Islands: Island 202

Bressay is located less than a mile to the east of Lerwick and the island creates a sheltered harbour for Lerwick and enabled its development as a port. Bressay is 7 miles from north to south by 3 miles from east to west.   The name means Broad Island in Old Norse. Most of the island is composed of Old Red Sandstone. I visited Bressay for the first time in late April 2014 and returned to explore the island further in June 2017.

Bressay can be accessed by a roll-on, roll-off ferry from Lerwick. The services is frequent but not bookable and the journey time is 10 minutes.   Bressay isn't the world's most exciting island but it is pleasant enough. There isn't much for visitors to do apart from walking. There is a small heritage centre near the ferry but we didn't visit it, so I don't know what it is like. In order to get to the island of Noss, which is located due east of Bressay you need to walk or drive 3 miles across Bressay to get to the Noss ferry.

Bressay has a population of around 350 with many of the residents commuting to work in Lerwick.   The fish factory at Heogan is a source of employment on the island. The remains of herring fishing stations can be seen on the coast north of Gardiehouse and at Aith Ness. Aith Ness also has disused 18th and 19th century quarries. The flat sandstone from here were used for buildings and street paving in Lerwick.

The highest point on Bressay is the Wart of Bressay at 226 metres. In the mid to late 19th century the population was 800-900 and the remains of many deserted settlements can be seen on the east coast. Nowadays most of the people live on the west side of the island around Glebe.

The island has been inhabited since at least the Bronze Age, as there is a burnt mound and souterrain at Wadbister. We looked in vain for burnt mounds on both Noss and Mousa but I suspect that they are somewhat underwhelming when you do find them, unless you are an archaeologist.

The remains of First World War guns can be seen at Bard Head and Aith Ness and there is a First World War lookout on Anderhill.

Anderhill Lookout Tower

Inside Anderhill Lookout Tower

At Grutwick on the east coast there is a memorial cairn commemorating the bravery of helicopter winchman William Deacon, who died in 1997 while rescuing the crew of MV Green Lily off the coast here.

Looking south towards Bressay Lighthouse

Bressay Lighthouse

The lighthouse was built in 1858 by the Stevenson family. Some of the adjacent buildings are now rented out as self-catering accommodation. Just south of here is a natural arch but in 2014 I was in too much of a hurry to get to Noss to go and look at it. However I did see it from the Northlink ferry on the way back to Aberdeen. On my next visit in June 2017 I took the time to walk up the hill to the north of the lighthouse to see the arch.

Natural Arch at Bressay Lighthouse

Bressay Lighthouse

- note the lighthouse designs on the gates

Maryfield House Hotel

In 2017 I visited and had a coffee but the lady who served me appeared not to know what a latte was, even though it was listed on the menu. When it arrived however it was a pretty good coffee. However I thought the hotel bar was charmless and lacking in ambience.

Voe of Cullingsbrough on the north coast of Bressay

Bressay's only shop at Mail
The school and community hall are located nearby.

Anderhill World War I Lookout on Bressay from Noss

Gardie House

This mansion was built in 1724 and is one of the principal laird's houses in Shetland.

Bressay Stone and ruins of 10th century St Mary's Chapel at Cullingsbrough

Replica of the Bressay Stone

This engraved Pictish stone was discovered near Cullingsbrough on the north coast in 1864.

Graveyard at Gunnista

Henderson Mausoleum, Gunnista

The kirkyard at Gunnista, also on the north coast has the remains of an 18th century mausoleum built by the Henderson family and is the site of St Olaf's Church.