Isle of Fethaland is located at the far north of Shetland Mainland. It is linked to Shetland Mainland at Fethaland by a storm boulder beach. I think that it would only be cut off from Mainland in storm conditions but there is a section of the beach that has no vegetation on it, so I think it counts as an island. Fethaland means fat land or rich pasture in Old Norse. The Isle of Fethaland is 1km from north to south by 500m from east to west at its widest point.
To reach the Isle of Fethaland it is a 2.5 mile walk north up a track from the end of the A970 road at Isbister. There is a small parking area at the end of the road. Alternative parking is available at Sandvoe Cemetery. There is signposted more scenic alternative route to Fethaland, which heads east from Isbister out to the coast at Wick of Virdibreck and then north up the coast. There is a defined path but it is not easy to spot in places and there aren't many signposts. However, having reached the coast all you really need to do is head north keeping the sea on your right and being careful not to fall off the cliff! When I did the walk in late August 2019 the coastal route was a bit boggy in places. On a clear day it is well worth walking the extra distance to do the coastal route, as the cliffs are spectacular, with several stacks and natural arches to see.
A fishing station was established at Fethaland during the 15th or 16th century. At first this was subsistence fishing done inshore from small boats, with the catch being consumed by the fishermen and their families. By the mid 18th century tenants were required by their landlords (merchant-lairds) to go out fishing for them, in order to keep their crofts. This was haaf (deep sea) fishing. Two trips were made each week in open six oared boats called sixareens. The fishermen sailed or rowed out up to 40 miles from the shore to the fishing grounds in order to fish for cod and ling using long-lines. They often stayed at sea for 2-3 days.
Haaf fishing stations were established at various locations across Shetland, including Fethaland, Stenness, Gloup (Yell) and Hillswick. At one time the Fethaland haaf fishing station was the busiest in Shetland, with 60 boats operating from it during the summer season (June to August). Seasonal workers were housed in up to 36 lodges. Fish were cured and dried on the pebble beach, before being packed and exported. The lodges were stone huts with roofs of wood and turf. The roofs were removed at the end of the fishing season to avoid damage during the winter storms. The remains of about 20 lodges dating from the 18th and 19th centuries can still be seen on both the Fethaland and Isle of Fethaland sides of the storm beach.
The haaf fishing industry came to an end in Shetland in the late 19th century, due to disasters in 1881 and 1900, the rise of the herring industry, the introduction of large steam trawlers and the Crofters' Holdings Act of 1886, which gave crofters security of tenure and other rights.
Point of Fethaland Lighthouse was built on the highest point on the island in 1977, to guide oil tankers sailing to and from the oil terminal at Sullom Voe.
On the north side of the haaf fishing station there are the remains of an oval shaped chambered prehistoric house (possibly dating from the Iron Age). The site was excavated in 1904 by Abercromby and pottery was found.
In Viking times soapstone (known as Kleber in Shetland) was quarried on the east side of the Isle of Fethaland to the north of Cleber Geos. The oval shapes of the bowls they carved out of the soft stone can still be seen on the cliffs.
When I visited the Isle of Fethaland in late August 2019, hawkweed and tormentil were in flower on the island and I could see the dried remains of lots of thrift flowers from earlier in the year.
Haaf fishing stations were established at various locations across Shetland, including Fethaland, Stenness, Gloup (Yell) and Hillswick. At one time the Fethaland haaf fishing station was the busiest in Shetland, with 60 boats operating from it during the summer season (June to August). Seasonal workers were housed in up to 36 lodges. Fish were cured and dried on the pebble beach, before being packed and exported. The lodges were stone huts with roofs of wood and turf. The roofs were removed at the end of the fishing season to avoid damage during the winter storms. The remains of about 20 lodges dating from the 18th and 19th centuries can still be seen on both the Fethaland and Isle of Fethaland sides of the storm beach.
The haaf fishing industry came to an end in Shetland in the late 19th century, due to disasters in 1881 and 1900, the rise of the herring industry, the introduction of large steam trawlers and the Crofters' Holdings Act of 1886, which gave crofters security of tenure and other rights.
Point of Fethaland Lighthouse was built on the highest point on the island in 1977, to guide oil tankers sailing to and from the oil terminal at Sullom Voe.
On the north side of the haaf fishing station there are the remains of an oval shaped chambered prehistoric house (possibly dating from the Iron Age). The site was excavated in 1904 by Abercromby and pottery was found.
In Viking times soapstone (known as Kleber in Shetland) was quarried on the east side of the Isle of Fethaland to the north of Cleber Geos. The oval shapes of the bowls they carved out of the soft stone can still be seen on the cliffs.
When I visited the Isle of Fethaland in late August 2019, hawkweed and tormentil were in flower on the island and I could see the dried remains of lots of thrift flowers from earlier in the year.
Looking north towards the Isle of Fethaland across the Wick of Breibister
Looking south east from the haaf station towards the Wick of Breibister
Isle of Fethaland from Fethaland
Wester Wick looking towards Buska Stack
Isle of Fethaland from Fethaland
Fethaland haaf station
Looking south east from the haaf station
Fethaland from the Isle of Fethaland
Fethaland from the Isle of Fethaland
Lamb in one of the haaf station ruins
Haaf station ruins
Point of Fethaland Lighthouse
Point of Fethaland Lighthouse
Cliffs on the west side of Isle of Fethaland
Cliffs on the west coast of Isle of Fethaland
Looking south down the west coast
Looking north towards Gruney, Fladda and Ramna Stacks from Point of Fethaland
Looking south from Point of Fethaland towards the lighthouse
Looking north across Stuack towards Gruney, Fladda and Ramna Stacks from Point of Fethaland
Bark Stack, east coast of Isle of Fethaland
Bark Stack on the east coast of Isle of Fethaland
Outcrop of white rock - looking north on the east coast of Isle of Fethaland, close to Bark Stack
Looking south across the haaf station towards Fethaland
Haaf station
Looking north across Fethaland towards the Isle of Fethaland
Hi - can I use a couple of your photos of Fethaland for my own write up of mapping the area many years ago. Source/attribution given of course?
ReplyDeleteBest regards, Phil Ringrose, Norway
Yes, that's fine with me.
ReplyDeleteSo beautiful, I would love to visit.
ReplyDelete