Oronsay from Dubh Eilean
Typical landscape on Dubh Eilean
The narrow channel separating Dubh Eilean from Oronsay
The sun has come out for a minute!
Wednesday, 19 September 2012
Island 173 - Dubh Eilean, Oronsay, Inner Hebrides
Dubh Eilean is a small uninhabited tidal island located off the west coast of Oronsay. It is only separated from Oronsay by a small channel, which clears at low tide to leave a sandy beach. It is unremarkable and consists of grass covered rocky outcrops.
Island 172 - Oronsay, Colonsay, Inner Hebrides, Scotland
There are several islands with the name Oronsay, which means tidal island in Old Norse, although in this case the name may be derived from St Oran, who came to the island from Ireland in 563 AD. St Columba is also said to have come to the island and founded a monastery here. However he moved on to Iona when he realised that he could still see his home country of Ireland from Oronsay. The Christian missionaries were not the first to visit Oronsay, as there are several Mesolithic shell mounds on the island. Excavations of these have revealed bone and stone tools and midden materials.
This Oronsay, which is also sometimes spelt Oransay, is located immediately to the south of the island of Colonsay in the Inner Hebrides. At low tide it is linked to Colonsay by The Strand. According to the Colonsay website it is accessible for about 2.5 hours either side of low tide but it also says that sometimes it doesn't clear at all if it is a neap tide and a strong wind is blowing. Although Colonsay and Oronsay are only 250 metres or so apart at their closest crossing point, the recommended route is a mile across the sand.
Low tide on the day I wanted to visit was at 10.15, so I got out of bed early and was ready to cross by 8am. However having parked my car at the end of the road I realised that there was still water between me and Oronsay. I set off wearing my walking boots in the hope that the water was just a mirage but half way across The Strand I realised that there was about 300 metres of water to cross. At this point an intrepid family from Letchworth joined me and we debated the best place to cross. It was good to have some company. A couple of people had waded across successfully ahead of us, so after a while we decided to follow them. To avoid ruining my walking boots I put on a pair of crocs and we waded through the cold water, which in places was knee deep.
Not wanting to get stranded we quickly walked the mile or so to the Priory and then down onto the delightful and empty silver sand beach at Port na Luing. I left the family there and went off to 'collect' another island - Dubh Eilean. The heavens decided to open at this point for about 10 minutes, then the sun came out and we were treated to a lovely rainbow.
On our return journey we paused to have a look round the Priory ruins, which are extensive. There was a notice next to the entrance, which said car park. I can't imagine wanting to drive across The Strand but I suppose with a 4x4 it would be possible.
We could probably have spent longer on Oronsay but decided that we would walk straight back across The Strand, which was clearer than when we had crossed earlier but still not dry. I have subsequently read and heard of several people who stayed too long on Oronsay and nearly got cut off by the incoming tide, so was glad had erred on the side of caution.
The current Priory buildings are the remains of the Augustinian Priory founded in 1380, although they are thought to be on the site of the earlier one founded by St Columba. The farm next to the Priory was built by the McNeils with stones taken from the Priory.
There is apparently a sanctuary cross half way across the Strand, although I didn't see it. In the past fugitives from Colonsay who reached the cross could claim immunity from punishment if they stayed on Oronsay for a year and a day. There is also a rock that looks like an elephant's head, at the Oronsay end of the Strand crossing. However I didn't notice this either. I must pay more attention on my next visit.
Oronsay was sold by Lord Strathcona in the 1970s to an American. It was bought by another in the 1980s and is now leased to the RSPB.
The whole of the island of Oronsay is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and Special Protection Area (SPA) for its chough and corncrake populations. I didn't see any choughs on Oronsay but I encountered a couple at Kiloran on Colonsay.
The island is farmed by the RSPB with a mixed farming regime with cattle and sheep, late cut grass and arable crops grown for corncrake conservation. All other areas are managed for choughs by grazing regimes.
Other important species include breeding waders (lapwings and redshanks), farmland birds (twites, skylarks, linnets) and wintering geese: barnacle geese and Greenland white-fronted geese. Habitats include dune grassland, machair, in-bye grassland and heath/acid grassland.
This Oronsay, which is also sometimes spelt Oransay, is located immediately to the south of the island of Colonsay in the Inner Hebrides. At low tide it is linked to Colonsay by The Strand. According to the Colonsay website it is accessible for about 2.5 hours either side of low tide but it also says that sometimes it doesn't clear at all if it is a neap tide and a strong wind is blowing. Although Colonsay and Oronsay are only 250 metres or so apart at their closest crossing point, the recommended route is a mile across the sand.
Low tide on the day I wanted to visit was at 10.15, so I got out of bed early and was ready to cross by 8am. However having parked my car at the end of the road I realised that there was still water between me and Oronsay. I set off wearing my walking boots in the hope that the water was just a mirage but half way across The Strand I realised that there was about 300 metres of water to cross. At this point an intrepid family from Letchworth joined me and we debated the best place to cross. It was good to have some company. A couple of people had waded across successfully ahead of us, so after a while we decided to follow them. To avoid ruining my walking boots I put on a pair of crocs and we waded through the cold water, which in places was knee deep.
Not wanting to get stranded we quickly walked the mile or so to the Priory and then down onto the delightful and empty silver sand beach at Port na Luing. I left the family there and went off to 'collect' another island - Dubh Eilean. The heavens decided to open at this point for about 10 minutes, then the sun came out and we were treated to a lovely rainbow.
On our return journey we paused to have a look round the Priory ruins, which are extensive. There was a notice next to the entrance, which said car park. I can't imagine wanting to drive across The Strand but I suppose with a 4x4 it would be possible.
We could probably have spent longer on Oronsay but decided that we would walk straight back across The Strand, which was clearer than when we had crossed earlier but still not dry. I have subsequently read and heard of several people who stayed too long on Oronsay and nearly got cut off by the incoming tide, so was glad had erred on the side of caution.
The current Priory buildings are the remains of the Augustinian Priory founded in 1380, although they are thought to be on the site of the earlier one founded by St Columba. The farm next to the Priory was built by the McNeils with stones taken from the Priory.
There is apparently a sanctuary cross half way across the Strand, although I didn't see it. In the past fugitives from Colonsay who reached the cross could claim immunity from punishment if they stayed on Oronsay for a year and a day. There is also a rock that looks like an elephant's head, at the Oronsay end of the Strand crossing. However I didn't notice this either. I must pay more attention on my next visit.
Oronsay was sold by Lord Strathcona in the 1970s to an American. It was bought by another in the 1980s and is now leased to the RSPB.
The whole of the island of Oronsay is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and Special Protection Area (SPA) for its chough and corncrake populations. I didn't see any choughs on Oronsay but I encountered a couple at Kiloran on Colonsay.
The island is farmed by the RSPB with a mixed farming regime with cattle and sheep, late cut grass and arable crops grown for corncrake conservation. All other areas are managed for choughs by grazing regimes.
Other important species include breeding waders (lapwings and redshanks), farmland birds (twites, skylarks, linnets) and wintering geese: barnacle geese and Greenland white-fronted geese. Habitats include dune grassland, machair, in-bye grassland and heath/acid grassland.
The recommended crossing point - approaching Oronsay
A 4x4 crossing The Strand - approaching Colonsay
Cloisters at Oronsay Priory
Oronsay Priory
Oronsay Priory
Port na Luinge Beach
North coast of Oronsay approaching the crossing point
Oronsay Farm next to the Priory
Priory Cottages
Oronsay Priory
Oronsay Priory - Celtic Cross
Oronsay Farm
Collection of carved tombstones
End of the road - approaching The Strand
Rainbow over Port na Luinge
Beinn Oronsay - the highest point on the island
Island 171 - Colonsay, Inner Hebrides
I spent 2 nights and 2 days on this delightful island at the end of August 2012. I visited Colonsay again for the day from Islay in June 2025.
I stayed in the Backpacker's Lodge. I assumed when I arrived off the Calmac ferry from Oban that the Backpacker's Lodge would be signposted or in the village of Scalasaig but I could see no sign of it. In the end I found someone to ask and it turned out to be 4 miles away at the north end of the island near Colonsay House up a very rough track. I was glad I had brought the car! However I am sure that it would be relatively easy to thumb a lift if you needed to. There is plenty of accommodation on the island - a hotel, B&Bs and self-catering, in addition to the Backpacker's Lodge.
The island is probably named after St Columba. Colonsay has been inhabited since at least Neolithic times. In 1882 a Viking ship burial was uncovered in the sand dunes at Kiloran. The island had a succession of owners until 1700 when it was acquired by the McNeil family. Their descendants were forced to hand the island over to Lord Strathcona in 1905 in lieu of a debt they owed him.
Colonsay can be reached by aeroplane from Oban or by car ferry from Oban or in the summer on a Wednesday or Saturday from Kennacraig on the mainland and from Islay. All the roads on the island are single track with passing places. They aren't busy but the road surface is appalling in some places, so you won't be able to drive too fast. Bicycles can be hired on the island. In 2022 the population of Colonsay was 117.
The Monument above Scalsaig
The plaque commemorates the Iron Age hill fort, which can be seen in the distance. Dun Eibhinn is the most important of several Iron Age hill forts which are located on Colonsay.
I stayed in the Backpacker's Lodge. I assumed when I arrived off the Calmac ferry from Oban that the Backpacker's Lodge would be signposted or in the village of Scalasaig but I could see no sign of it. In the end I found someone to ask and it turned out to be 4 miles away at the north end of the island near Colonsay House up a very rough track. I was glad I had brought the car! However I am sure that it would be relatively easy to thumb a lift if you needed to. There is plenty of accommodation on the island - a hotel, B&Bs and self-catering, in addition to the Backpacker's Lodge.
The island is probably named after St Columba. Colonsay has been inhabited since at least Neolithic times. In 1882 a Viking ship burial was uncovered in the sand dunes at Kiloran. The island had a succession of owners until 1700 when it was acquired by the McNeil family. Their descendants were forced to hand the island over to Lord Strathcona in 1905 in lieu of a debt they owed him.
Colonsay can be reached by aeroplane from Oban or by car ferry from Oban or in the summer on a Wednesday or Saturday from Kennacraig on the mainland and from Islay. All the roads on the island are single track with passing places. They aren't busy but the road surface is appalling in some places, so you won't be able to drive too fast. Bicycles can be hired on the island. In 2022 the population of Colonsay was 117.
Scalasaig from the Monument
Scalasaig is the main settlement on the island and the shop, post office, café, microbrewery, doctors' surgery and a book publishing business are located here. The café is called The Pantry. The cakes and hot drinks were excellent.
Scalasaig Harbour
View from Dun Ghallain on the west coast
War Memorial at Scalasaig
Meall na Suiridhe looking south towards Kiloran Bay
The Whale to the north of Kiloran Bay
- it is difficult to make
out in this photo but the stones on the raised beach have been arranged
to form the outline of a whale. He has an old tyre as his eye. His tail is on the left of the photo.
This scenery is typical of much of Colonsay
Dun Ghallain at An Aird on the west coast
Port Lobh on the west coast
Colonsay Airport
Traigh an Tobair Fhuair on the west coast
Calmac Ferry at Scalasaig
Colonsay House Gardens
Kiloran Bay looking north
On the afternoon I visited, this seemed to be the most popular place on the island for visitors. Carnan Eoin, which is the highest point on the island at 143 metres, can be seen in the distance.
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| Colonsay and Oronsay Heritage Centre at Port Mor Free to visit and very interesting. The islanders are hoping to get funding for a purpose built building. |
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| Sculptured stone at Tobar Oran (St Oran's Well) Now located in Colonsay House Gardens, it originally came from the now ruined village of Riasg Buidhe on the east coast of Colonsay |
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| Dunan nan Nighean on the north east coast |
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| Sculptures at Traigh an Tobair Fhuair |
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| Colonsay Golf Course - 18 holes - please put your fees in the honesty box! |
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| Backpacker's Lodge |
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| Colonsay Hotel near Scalasaig |
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| Colonsay House Gardens The lens came from Rhuvaal Lighthouse on Islay
The gardens of Colonsay House are open to the public on a couple of afternoons a week in the summer. They are worth a visit but the paths are very muddy in places, so I would recommend walking boots and, apart from the area round the house, the gardens are a bit neglected and overgrown. The admission fee in 2012 was £3. The gardens are famous for their rhododendrons and azaleas, which obviously weren't at their best in late August. There is a café. The woods around Colonsay House garden are free to visit and open every day. |
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| Colonsay House
The house was built in 1722 by the McNeils. They planted trees in the Kiloran Valley in the 19th century, which provided shelter for the gardens developed by Lord Strathcona from 1905 onwards. The main planting in the garden was done after 1930 when the shelter belt of trees was tall enough.  Rhododendron in the woods around Colonsay House |
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| Kiloran Bay looking south |
On the afternoon I visited, this seemed to be the most popular place on the island for visitors. Carnan Eoin, which is the highest point on the island at 143 metres, can be seen in the distance.
Kiloran Beach on a grey day in June 2025
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| West Coast - looking towards Lower Kilchattan |
Colonsay's only food shop, Scalasaig
Community garden and hall, Scalasaig
Church in Scalasaig
This Church of Scotland church was designed by the architect Michael Carmichael and built in 1802.
The Pothole Islands Revisited
During my late summer 2012 tour of Scotland I revisited Seil (see Island 36), Easdale (see Island 98) Islay (see Island 27), Jura (see Island 28) and Arran (see Island 3). While the road surfaces on Seil weren't too bad those on Colonsay, Islay and Jura were appalling. I don't know what Argyll and Bute Council spend their money on but it isn't resurfacing the roads! The roads on Arran were mainly alright. Moan over. I had a great holiday, visited 17 islands in 10 days, of which 12 were new to me.
Wednesday, 8 August 2012
Burgh Island revisited - see Island 89
I spent a leisurely hour on a warm sunny afternoon on Burgh Island in August 2012.
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