Sunday, 8 October 2017

Island 400 - Coney Island/Inishmulclohy, County Sligo

My 400th island!  When I started this blog, I never thought that there were 400 islands you can visit around the coasts of Britain and Ireland but now I realise that there are probably at least 500.

Coney Island or Inishmulclohy is a tidal island off the coast of County Sligo and close to the seaside town of Strandhill.  Coney is an old name for a rabbit and the island was so called because of the large population of rabbits that lived there.  They may still live there but they were all hiding when I visited on an overcast day in early September 2017.  The only mammals I saw were a dog, a field of cows and three donkeys.  Coney Island is low lying and approximately 1.25 miles from north to south and 1 mile from east to west at its widest point.

Access to Coney Island is down a narrow lane off the R292 half way between Sligo and Strandhill.  There is space to park about 8 cars at the end of the tarmac road.  It is possible to drive across the sand to Coney Island and a couple of cars made the crossing while I was walking back from the island.  While I wouldn't recommend driving across, you can't get lost, as there are 14 large stone marker posts at regular intervals marking the recommended route across Dorrins Strand, which is about 1.25 miles long. 

I arrived at the crossing point about two and a half hours before low tide but there were still lots of pools of ankle deep water covering the strand.  There is large noticeboard at the start of the crossing point, which warns of the dangers of the incoming tide.  It also gives numbers, which you can text from UK or Republic of Ireland mobiles and you get a quick automatic reply, which tells you the safe crossing times for that day.  I crossed to Coney Island wearing a pair of plastic crocs and carrying my walking boots.  By the time I returned from Coney Island to the mainland it was approaching low tide and I was able to do the crossing in walking boots without getting wet feet.

There are several Coney Islands off Ireland but this is supposedly the one after which the Coney Island in the borough of Brooklyn in New York is named.  The story is that Captain Peter O'Connor, who was master of the schooner Arethusa, sailed between Sligo and New York in the late 18th or early 19th centuries and on seeing the island off Brooklyn it reminded him of Sligo's Coney Island, so he named it after it.  The New York Coney Island is a seaside resort famous for its amusement parks.  Coney Island in County Sligo has one pub (closed when I visited on a Wednesday morning) and about a dozen cottages.  There is also a ruined farmhouse and a ruined school.  In 2011 the residential population of the island was 2 (down from 6 in 2006 and 124 in 1841), so presumably the other houses are all holiday homes.

Once on Coney Island you can follow the road north to the village and then along the north coast to the west coast.  There is also a track from the village direct to the sandy bay on the west side of the island.  I didn't walk as far round as the beach on the west side but I did walk to the west coast to look for some fossils on the beach.  Thanks to my GPS and the setter of a geocaching earthcache I found the fossils easily and they are remarkably clear.  I have not been able to find out what they are yet but they are the best fossils I have ever seen in situ on a beach - see photos below.  There were plenty of juicy blackberries to eat in the island's hedgerows. 

There are information boards at various locations around the village identifying wild flowers and sea creatures to be found on Coney Island and in the rock pools on its beaches.  There is also a map of the island showing places of interest.  One of the places marked is St Patrick's Wishing Chair.  However the map wasn't sufficiently detailed to show the location clearly and there was no photo of it, so I didn't know what I was looking for and therefore I didn't find it.  Having looked at photos on the internet it looks like it is in a field but I still don't know its exact location.

Artist Neal Grieg runs art workshops (painting and drawing) in a small studio on Coney Island.  On the day I visited I didn't see another person all the time I was on the island.

From the north coast of Coney Island you can clearly see the back of The Metal Man on Perch Rock.  He was put there in 1821 and is dressed as a Royal Navy officer.  He is pointing his arm to show the safest entrance to Sligo Harbour.  He has an identical twin at Tramore in County Waterford.  He is 3.7 metres tall and is maintained as a lighthouse by the Commissioners for Irish Lights.

Coney Island features in Sebastian Barry's novel The Secret Scripture, which is about the unhappy life of a 100 year old lady in an Irish mental hospital.  Heavily pregnant in the 1940s with an illegitimate baby and having been rejected by her in-laws in Sligo, she walks back to her hut in Strandhill at night along the beach. In the dark she loses her bearings and ends up walking across to Coney Island where she gives birth to a son.  Exhausted, she then falls asleep holding the baby in her arms but when she wakes up the baby has disappeared.  You'll have to read the book to find out what happens in the end.

Badgers colonised Coney Island in the 1970s and they are apparently lighter in colour than their mainland relatives and they have white noses.

Marker Post
 
Ruined Farm Buildings
 
Ruined Farmhouse
 
Welcome to Coney Island
 
Vegetable Garden
 
Donkeys and Rosehips
 
Pub
 
King Edward VII Letter Box
 
Coney Island Wildflowers Information Board
 
Oyster Island from Coney Island
 
Memorial Plaque
 
Metal Man and Rosses Point with Benbulbin in the misty distance from the north end of Coney Island
 
Coney Island Rock Pools Information Board
 
Old Water Pump
 
Fossils
 
Fossils
 
More fossils
 
Lighthouse on Black Rock from the west coast of Coney Island
 
Fossils
 
Close up of fossil

 
Cottage on Coney Island
 
Another Coney Island Cottage
 
Warning Notice
 
Old School
 
Warning Notice

Saturday, 7 October 2017

Island 399 - Cruit Island, County Donegal

Cruit Island is linked to the Rosses area of Donegal by a road bridge and a separate footbridge close to the village of Belcruit.  The name is apparently pronounced "critch".  The island is 3 miles long and 1.25 miles long at its widest point but most of the island is less than half a mile wide.   The bridges are at the south eastern tip of the island and there is one single track public road that runs the length of the island to the golf course at the north end.  Several of the houses on the island, which has a resident population of around 85, are self-catering holiday cottages.  The island has some good sandy beaches but no church, shop or public toilets.  There is no public car park and not many places that you could park and leave a car to explore the island.

Footbridge to Cruit Island from the Donegal Mainland

Bridge to Cruit Island

Cruit Island Golf Club

Holiday Cottages


Welcome to Cruit

Beach on the east side of Cruit Island
Darren's Memorial

Cemetery

Shipwrecked Fishing Boat

Cruit Island Footbridge

Memorial Bench and the foot and road bridges

Island 398 - Arranmore/Árainn Mhór, County Donegal

Arranmore (Árainn Mhór in Irish)  is located 2.5 miles to the west of the village of Burtonport on the west coast of County Donegal.  In 2011 it had a resident population of 514, down from a peak of 1,533 in 1911.  The island is approximately 4 miles from north to south and 3 miles from east to west at its widest points.  Almost all the people live on the east and south sides of the island and the largest settlement is Leabgarrow, which is located close to the pier where the ferries dock.  The highest point is Cnoc an Iolair/Cluidaniller in the centre of Arranmore at 226 metres.  The island is part of the Irish speaking Donegal Gaeltacht.

Arranmore can be accessed by roll-on/roll off vehicle ferries from Burtonport.  There are two rival companies running similar sized ferries: the red boat and the blue boat.  Each takes about 4 cars.  I did contemplate taking my car but was glad I didn't, as the day I was there in early September 2017 workmen were busy resurfacing several sections of road in different parts of the island, so some roads were closed and the ferries were busy ferrying the large lorries carrying the hot tarmac to the island.  I chose the red boat because the lady in the blue ferry ticket office was too busy chatting on her mobile phone to serve me, while the lady in the red ferry office was very helpful, friendly and welcoming.  The journey time for both ferries is about 15 minutes.

The day I visited was warm and sunny, although on the exposed west side of the island it was extremely windy.  I wouldn't recommend a visit on a wet day, as there really isn't anything indoors to visit apart from the church, shop, bars and post office.  I don't know how friendly the islanders are, as the only islander I spoke to was the lady in the shop, who was short of change and I had plenty in my purse, so I exchanged it with her for some Euro notes.  I had an interesting chat to 3  friendly ladies from Limerick, who like me were day visitors.

The ferry timetable leaflet comes with a sketch map of the island, although not all the tracks shown on it agreed with the Ordnance Survey map or reality.  However it did show points of interest, so was useful for this.

Places of interest on Arranmore include:
  • Lighthouse on the north west tip of the island.  A lighthouse was first built on Arranmore in 1798 and was the first lighthouse in Donegal.  It was rebuilt in 1865 and automated in 1982.  You can't go into the lighthouse compound but it is very photogenic.  There is a derelict coastguard station close by, which was burnt down during the War of Independence in 1921.
  • Beaver Island Memorial in Loch Thoir/Shore.  Hundreds of islanders emigrated to Beaver Island in Lake Michigan, USA after a new landlord called Chorley evicted 400 people in 1850.  Arranmore is twinned with Beaver Island and the memorial was built in 2000.  There is a small shrine on the shore opposite the memorial and this proved to be a useful shelter for me during a short but heavy rain shower.  There is also a picnic site nearby.
  • Cliffs on the north and west coast.  These are up to 120 metres high in places.
  • Trig point and memorial shrine on the top of Cnoc an Iolair (the name means Hill of the Eagle).
  • Church on the south coast.  There is a shrine and a memorial in the graveyard and some beautiful modern stained glass windows inside.
  • Old Graveyard - on the opposite side of a small bay to the church.  This graveyard was given to the islanders in 1725 after the tragic drowning of 9 people on their way to a funeral on the mainland.  It was replaced by a new graveyard in 1992.
  • Cave of Slaughter: this is located at Uilinn on the south coast not far from the church and a prehistoric promontory fort.  Local legend has it that a Cromwellian captain called Conyngham slaughtered 70 women and children who were sheltering in the cave in 1641.
  • Monument to the bravery of the 8 members of the Arranmore Lifeboat crew who rescued 18 Dutch sailors from the cargo vessel SS Stolwijk in December 1940.  The Stolwijk had run aground on rocks near Tory Island in a violent storm and the rescue took 9 hours.  The monument, which is at Leabgarrow Pier was only unveiled in August 2017.
There are several B&Bs, 3 pubs or restaurants, 2 hotels, a self-catering hostel and a self-catering holiday village at the Cultural Centre.


Roadside Shrine

Beaver Island Memorial

Shrine at Beaver Island Memorial

Stone picnic site - at least it won't blow away

Cliffs on the west side of Arranmore

Derelict Coastguard Station

Lighthouse

Lighthouse

Not sure what this is? It is close to the lighthouse

Looking west - next stop North America

West Coast

Peat Cutting

Trig Point on Cluidaniller

Shrine on the summit of Cnoc an Iolair

Looking down on Lough Ashesky and Loch Nameena from the Trig Point on Cnoc an Iolair

Church on the South Coast

Shrine at Church
 

Stained Glass Window in the Church

Stained Glass Window

Interior of the Church

Memorial in the Churchyard

Old Graveyard

Old Graveyard

Holiday Village

School

Carricklea Bay

Shop and adjacent Pub

Post Office

Yet another shrine

Memorial

Fish and Bird Mural at the Harbour

Blue Ferry

Saturday, 30 September 2017

Island 397 - Carraig a' Ghóilín, County Donegal

Carraig a' Ghóilín or possibly Carraig on Ghóilín is a small tidal island in the middle of the causeway that links Island Roy to the mainland of County Donegal to the north of the small town of Carrickart on the Rosguill Peninsula.  I visited it in September 2015 but at that time thought that it was unnamed, so didn't count it.  I have since learnt that it does have a name, so I have now decided to include it.  This island is about 100 metres long by 25 metres wide and is covered in rough grass with a few nettles brambles and dock plants.  Scabious, ragwort, dandelions and sea mayweed were in  flower when I visited in September 2017.

Scabious in flower
 

Life belt - looking east towards Island Roy
 
Mainland Donegal from Carraig a' Ghóilín,
 
 
Island Roy from Carraig a' Ghóilín,