Monday, 29 May 2023

Island 500 - Spurn - Britain's newest island

Spurn Head is Britain's newest tidal island.  It is a dynamic coastal system feature: a 3 mile long spit made of sand, shingle and boulder clay. It is located at the mouth of the Humber Estuary and is attached to the Holderness district of East Yorkshire just south of the village of Kilnsea.  At its narrowest point it is only 50 metres wide and there is a 1km "washover" section of sand which gets covered by the sea at high tides.  Until 2013 there was a public road running the whole length of the peninsula.  Occasionally sections of it were washed away by storms but it was always repaired.  However after a large section was washed away in 2013, a decision was made to stop repairing it and to allow Spurn to become a tidal island.

The sand, shingle and boulder clay that Spurn is made from has eroded from the Holderness coastline to the south of Flamborough Head and this has been washed down the coast by longshore drift.  There are almost as many theories about the stages in Spurn's formation as there are geomorphologists who have studied it. 

In the middle ages two ports were established in the vicinity of Spurn (their exact locations are as yet unknown): Ravenser Odd was established c1235 but washed away in a storm in 1362 and Ravenspurn, which suffered the same fate few centuries later.  Henry of Bolingbroke (later King Henry IV)  landed at Ravenspurn in 1399 on his way to dethrone King Richard II. Edward IV landed at Ravenspurn in 1471 from his exile in the Netherlands to reclaim his throne from Henry VI but was met by hostile local residents led by Martin de la See.

Spurn is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a National Nature Reserve, which has been owned and managed by the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust since they purchased it in 1959.  They run the Spurn Discovery Centre at Kilnsea, which was opened in 2018.  It has a cafĂ©, toilets, shop and information about wildlife at Spurn. There is a separate bird observatory at Kilnsea, because Spurn is a great place to watch migrating birds.

It is free to walk to Spurn Head (there is a charge for parking in the car park at Kilnsea) but if you can't or don't want to walk, the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust also offer Spurn Safaris on their Unimog, which is an adapted 4x4 ex-military truck.  The safaris with a knowledgeable guide last 3 hours and include a visit to the lighthouse.  In 2023 the cost was £22 for an adult and £12 for a child.

A lifeboat station was built at Spurn in 1810.  In 1819 houses were built next to the boat house to accommodate the lifeboatmen and their families.  Until 1908 the station was run by Hull Trinity House.  From 1908 to 1911 it was run by the Humber Conservancy Board.  It was then taken over by the RNLI. Robert Cross was coxswain of the lifeboat from 1911 until he retired in 1943 aged 67.  During this time he took part in the rescue of 403 people.  The lifeboat station was known as Spurn until 1924 when its name was changed to Humber. It is the only RNLI lifeboat station with a full-time paid crew, due to its remoteness. The 1819 houses were replace in 1975 by new ones.  In 2012 the decision was taken to relocate the families of the lifeboat crew to Kilnsea. The lifeboat crew still live in the houses when they are on shift.

There is currently a Humber Pilots' lookout tower on the end of Spurn.  They shared this with HM Coastguard until about the late 1980s when the Coastguard moved to Bridlington.

The earliest reference to a lighthouse on Spurn Head was in 1427.  In the 17th century there was a pair of lighthouses - high and low lights.  John Smeaton was commissioned to build a new pair of lighthouses on Spurn in 1767.  Smeaton's low light was soon washed away by the sea but his high light remained in use until 1895.  Several temporary replacements were built to replace the low light until a solid replacement designed by James Walker was built by engineer Henry Norris in 1852.  It is still standing on the sands on the western side of Spurn but its lantern has been replaced by a water tank.  Smeaton's high light was replaced in 1895 by a brick lighthouse designed by Thomas Matthews.  It had a range of 17 nautical miles and 3 separate sector lights: 2 of these marked shoals/sandbanks and the 3rd showed the main channel along the Humber estuary.  The lighthouse was decommissioned in 1985.  It was restored by Yorkshire Wildlife Trust 2013-16 and is now open to visitors at weekends. It is 128 feet high and is the tallest lighthouse in northern England.

During the First World War two coastal artillery batteries were built on Spurn Head.  In 1915 a 3.75 mile railway was constructed from Kilnsea to a specially constructed pier at Spurn Head.  The railway line had 2 passing loops (mid-way and near Kilnsea) and 3 sidings at the Kilnsea end.  A saddle tank steam engine called Kenyon was used on the line until 1929.  There was one coach and 2 open wagons. In the 1920s 3 petrol Drewry railcars were used on the line in succession. In 1929 a brand new Hardy railcar was purchased for the line. It was replaced in 1933 by a Hudswell Clark railcar, which ran on the line until it closed.  Sail bogeys or trolleys were used on the line from the end of the First World War.  They were wooden platforms with flanged wheels, which were powered by a sail.  They were used by lifeboatmen and the War Department staff.

During the Second World War LNER engine 559 was taken to Spurn, where it was nicknamed Black Sapper. There were 3 box vans and 3 open wagons. The railway line closed in 1952 and was dismantled. The railway pier was dismantled in the 1970s.

The caterpillars of the brown tailed moth first became a problem on Spurn in 2006.  They form cobweb-like nests on the sea buckthorn.  The caterpillars have hairs on them, which cause rashes, skin irritation, eye infections and breathing difficulties in some people.  The hairs can break off the caterpillars and blow about in the wind.  Volunteers for the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust actively destroys as many webs and caterpillars as they can but they can't remove them all.

Spurn Lighthouse

Spurn Lighthouse

Unimog in front of Spurn Lighthouse

Inside Spurn Lighthouse

Front door of Spurn Lighthouse

Compass rose on the top floor of Spurn Lighthouse

Etchings on the windows of Spurn Lighthouse

Looking south west down Spurn Point from the top of the lighthouse

View from the top of the lighthouse
The low light of 1852 is visible on the sands

View from the top of the lighthouse

Railway track near the lighthouse

RNLI houses

RNLI houses

Weather forecasting stone

RNLI houses

Humber Lifeboat jetty


Humber Lifeboat jetty

Humber lifeboat jetty

Signpost near the southern end of Spurn Point

Container ship passing Spurn Point

Humber Pilots' Lookout

Humber Pilots' Lookout

Sea buckthorn with brown-tailed moth nest


1852 Low Light

Second World War Lookout Post


Scrub vegetation on Spurn Point

Vegetation on the sand dunes

Spurn's only puffin

Spurn Point

Yorkshire Wildlife Trust's Spurn Discovery Centre

Saturday, 24 September 2022

Arran - A Look Beyond the Obvious - see also Island 3

Arran was the 3rd island I ever visited, back in 1976.  I have returned three times since and this blog post highlights some of the less obvious interesting places to visit on the island.

Tin Tabernacle Church at Pirnmill
The church was built c1920.

Pirnmill Church Bell

Plaque outside the Co-op in Lamlash commemorating Donald McKelvie
Donald McKelvie (1867-1947) developed disease resistant potatoes, including the Arran Chief, Arran Victory, Arran Pilot and Arran Banner. The Maris Piper was bred from his Arran Cairn,  He also bred Highland ponies.  He was born on Arran and after training as an accountant in Glasgow he returned to Lamlash in 1894 to run his family's bakery business.  He became interested in horticulture and developed the new varieties in his garden and on fields where the high school now stands.

Igneous Dyke at Kildonan Shore
The southern coast of Arran around Kildonan has one of the best exposed igneous dyke swarms in the world.  They were formed when basaltic magma was squeezed up through vertical  cracks in the earth's crust, which formed as the continents of Europe and North America were pulled apart 60 million years ago.  Today they look like walls that extend out into the sea.
Igneous Dyke at Kildonan Shore


Waterfall at Kildonan Shore

Seat at Kildonan Shore

Eas Mor Waterfall
It was more of a trickle, than a waterfall when we visited in May 2022, despite a week of rain.

Paper lined hut near Eas Mor
Not sure what this was all about!

Outside of the paper-lined hut at Eas More

Bluebells near Eas Mor Waterfall

Sheep bollard at Glen Sannox

Elephant Rock near Sannox

Hutton's Unconformity, Lochranza

Fairy Seat at the Fairy Dell near Lochranza

Fairy Dell, Lochranza

Twelve Apostles, Catacol
This row of 12 cottages is known as the Twelve Apostles.  They were built in the 1860s to house people who had been cleared from their homes in the interior of Arran to make way for deer.  

Barking House, Catacol
This now ruined building is where local fisherman used to preserved their sails, ropes and nets by immersing them in a liquid known as cutch. Cutch was made by boiling the bark of the Acacia catechu tree (from India) in water.

St Bride's Church, Lochranza
The current church was built in 1795 on the site of an earlier church. It was enlarged in 1835 and restored in the mid 1890s by the Duke of Hamilton.

Stained Glass Window in Lochranza Church
This window was given by Miss Edith Kerr in 1931 in memory of the Reverend John Colville. It depicts the ship of the Gospel sailing through the troubled seas of life. The thunder and lightning represent the perils its experiences along the way. The lighthouse on the hill in the background is a guide to the ship's ultimate goal, the city of light and the harbour where the waters are calm.

Auchencar Standing Stone

Auchencar Standing Stone

Auchagallon Cairn

Coast Path near the King's Cave

Cave near the King's Cave

Entrance to the King's Cave
According to legend, a despondent Robert the Bruce sheltered in this cave before the Battle of Bannockburn and it was here that he saw the famous spider that took numerous attempts to create its web but never gave up on its task.  This inspired him to have another go at claiming the Scottish throne.  However, the story is probably not true and the cave is one of a number that claim to have sheltered Robert the Bruce on that occasion.  The caves along this part of the coast to the north of Blackwaterfoot were eroded into the New Red Sandstone cliffs by the sea during the last ice age when glaciers covered much of Scotland and caused isostatic depression of the land.  When the climate warmed the glaciers melted and the weight of the ice was removed from the land, which caused it to rise up relative to the sea and to form the raised beaches, which are a feature around most of the coastline of Arran.

Cross carving in the King's Cave

Looking out of the King's Cave

King's Cave


Caves close to the King's Cave

Entrance to the King's Cave

Rock sculptures in a cave to the north of the King's Cave

Unusual rock formation near the King's Cave - is this an example of pillow lava?

Beautifully carved wooden otter gate at Corrie