Wednesday, 12 August 2026

Island 540 - Foula, Shetland

Foula is located 14 miles south west of Watts Ness on Shetland Mainland. If you travel due west from Foula the next landfall is the east coast of Greenland.   The Old Norse name for the island was Fuglaey, meaning "bird island".  The island is 2.5 miles from east to west and 3.5 miles from north to south.

In theory Foula is a very easy island to visit for a day trip: Airtask provides two scheduled flights from Tingwall Airport on Shetland Mainland to Foula on 5 days a week (Monday-Friday) during the summer months.  However, the planes are very small (8-seater) and the flights are often cancelled due to high winds and/or low visibility.  I first booked a day trip in June 2017, but that was cancelled.  I then tried on two different dates in September 2019 and they were both cancelled, due to inclement weather.  Finally in May 2026 I made it!  Our pilot's first attempt to land was aborted, due to the presence of sheep on the runway.  We landed safely at the second attempt.

I was the only day visitor, but when I arrived the occupants of a small cruise ship had just arrived on the island.  Some of them went on a guided walk to the north end of the island, but most of them walked from the pier at Ham up to the school, where there is a part-time souvenir shop.  They left after a couple of hours.  

There is a regular ferry service from Ham on Foula to Walls on Shetland Mainland.  It is operated by BK Marine Ltd and runs 3 times a week in the summer and twice a week in the winter.  The journey takes 2 hours. The ferry lives on Foula.  It is winched out of the water and kept in a concrete bunker when it isn't in use, because the harbour at Ham is very exposed.  Shetland Sea Adventures offer occasional day trips to Foula by boat from Hamnavoe on West Burra.

Foula's population peaked at 267 in 1881, when most of the islanders made a living from fishing.  It had fallen to 222 by 1901, 54 by 1961.  In 2001 it was 31 and in 2011 it was 38.  Half the inhabited houses are located in the south east of Foula at Hametoon and most of the rest are on the east coast at Ham.  The island's school/community centre is located at Ham.   

There is no food shop on Foula.  There is a Post Office, which is open a few days a week.  You can rent self-catering accommodation, but you will need to bring your own food and other supplies.  The only public toilet is at the airstrip.

Geologically the south and centre of Foula is made of sedimentary Old Red Sandstone, while the north east side is composed of metamorphic rocks, mainly schists and gneiss. There are 5 distinct peaks on the island: Da Sneug (418m), Hamnafield (344m), Da Kame (376m), Da Noup (248m) and Soberlie (221m).  Da Noup is separated from the other peaks by a glacial U-shaped valley called Da Daal.  

The now extinct North Germanic language Norn was spoken on Foula until 1800.  The islanders still use the Julian calendar and celebrate Christmas Day on 6th January and New Year's Day on 13th January. The rest of Britain adopted the Gregorian calendar in 1752.

A small lighthouse was built on the south east coast of Foula at Da South Ness in 1986.  A Met Office weather station is located close to it.

The Baxter Chapel is located near the airstrip. It was built in memory of a Congregationalist called Baxter, by his two sisters.

Before avian flu arrived on Foula in 2022, the island hosted the largest colony of great skuas (known as bonxies in Shetland).  1400 dead bonxies were found on Foula in 2022.

At the west end of the valley called Da Daal is a deep crack in the rock known as Da Sneck o da Smaalie.

Foula Airstrip

Foula Airstrip

Foula's Ferry: the New Advance

Stream at Ham Voe

Lighthouse

Weather station

Foula ewe and lamb
Foula sheep are the original type of Shetland sheep.  They naturally have short tails with only 13-15 tail bones. They can be a variety of colours, but most of them are moorit (brown). They have different notches cut into their ears to show who they belong to.

Foula sheep

Da Noup from Da Sooth Ness

Rocks at Da Sooth Ness

Ruined house at the eastern edge of  Da Daal

Baxter Chapel

Inside Baxter Chapel

Plantiecrub near Baxter Chapel with Hamnafield in the background
Plantiecrubs were used for growing kale seedlings. The kale grown was a slow growing variety called Shetland Kale.  It takes 2 years to mature.  When the seedlings were large enough they were transferred to a kale yard.  The kale was eaten by people and livestock.

Planticrub near Mucklegrind with Soberlie in the background

Mucklegrind

Old cottage on the north coast

Logit House
This house was built by James Ratter from Ollaberry on Shetland Mainland.  He lived there with his wife and family. The house was abandoned in 1884.

School

Peat cutting

Shetland Pony

Britain's most remote postbox?

Stone seat at Ham
The wall behind the seat encloses a kale yard.

Stone seat at the airstrip

Ruined chapel and cemetery at Da Biggings

Gaada Stack

Gaada Stack and Da Sheepie
The name comes from the Old Norse word gaad, meaning a hole.

Gaada Stack and Da Sheepie

Soberlie from Da Logat

Natural arch at East Hoevdi

Natural arch at East Hoevdi

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