Thursday, 9 August 2018

Island 435 - Little Bernera, Lewis

Little Bernera is an unspoilt gem of an island, with four stunning beaches of pale golden sand: three on the north coast and one on the south.  The island is located immediately to the north of Great Bernera, which is itself joined to Lewis by a bridge.  At the closest point Little Bernera and Great Bernera are no more than about 50 metres apart.  

Most of Little Bernera is covered grass with many rocky outcrops.  The island was being grazed by sheep when I visited on a warm and clear sunny afternoon in early June 2018.  Little Bernera is 2km from east to west and just over a kilometre from north to south and the highest point on the island is 42 metres above sea level. Butterwort, milkwort, primroses, tormentil, silverweed and bird's-foot trefoil were all in flower when I visited.

Little Bernera is uninhabited but Seatrek, which is based at Miavaig on the road to Uig, offer weekly three hour long RIB trips, which include landing on Little Bernera (or sometimes Pabbay) for an hour and a half.  The trip isn't cheap - £48 in June 2018 - but it also includes a non-landing tour around other neighbouring islands, such as Pabbay, Hairsgeir, Flodaigh, Bearasaigh, Old Hill/Seanna Chnoc and Campaigh.  We saw lots of seals and a sea eagle (my first ever).  Getting off the RIB was reasonably easy but getting back on it proved to be more difficult and undignified, as we half climbed and were half hauled back over the side of the boat by the driver.


In 1807 two men (possibly with family members) lived on Little Bernera but they later moved to Great Bernera.  By 1831 enough families were living on the island for the Edinburgh Gaelic School Society to open a school.  19 boys, 20 girls and an adult were enrolled in the school.  However most of the island's inhabitants were cleared from the island and resettled at Carloway on Lewis in 1832 or 1833 and the school closed.  Sometime after 1861 the last inhabitants left the island.

The beaches on Little Bernera, particularly Traigh Mhor on the north coast were some of the most beautiful I have ever seen. 

Unnamed steep beach on the northern coast of Little Bernera

Traigh Mhor on the north coat

Temple Sand - where we landed

Our boat

Temple Sand

Ruined chapel

Cemetery

Ruined chapel

Looking down on the landing beach from the cemetery


Looking south towards Great Bernera

Looking north towards Cealasaigh

Sand dunes on the north coast

Traigh Mhor - looking east

Traigh Mhor - looking west

Traigh Mhor

Traigh Mhor

Traigh Mhor

Another View of Traigh Mhor

Local residents running away from me

Traigh Mhor looking north west

Traigh Mhor

Traigh Mhor

Small beach to the east of Traigh Mhor

East coast of Little Bernera

Landing beach - looking towards the ruined chapel

Ruined chapel

Cemetery

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