A lifetime of Islands: Island 75 - Scalpay, Outer Hebrides

Tuesday 5 April 2011

Island 75 - Scalpay, Outer Hebrides

Scalpay (Sgalpaigh) has been linked to Harris by a bridge since 1997. The gap between Scalpay and Harris is only 300 metres at its narrowest point. 65% of the money for it came from a European Union grant. I paid a brief visit at dusk the evening before we left the Outer Hebrides in 2006 just to say I had been there.

The first lighthouse at Eilean Glas on the south east coast of Scalpay was built 1787-1789 by Thomas Smith. It was the first lighthouse to be built on the Outer Hebrides. It was replaced in 1824 by one built by Robert Stevenson. It was automated in 1978. It is currently painted with horizontal red and white stripes - a most pleasing combination.

In 2011 the population of Scalpay was 291, down from 322 in 2001 and 541 in 1951. Almost all the people live on the south west facing coast of the island, which has 2 natural harbours - North Harbour and South Harbour. The island is approximately 3 miles from east to west by 2 miles from north to south. The highest point on the island is Ben Scoravick at 104 metres.

I returned for a second visit on a beautiful sunny afternoon in June 2016. I had a scone at the Café Bistro, which has a great view of the harbour from the window, visited the tidal island of Or Eilean and then walked to Eilean Glas Lighthouse from the end of the council maintained road at the southern end of the island where is a small car park. There is a new waymarked path to the lighthouse, which has been surfaced with gravel for its entire route. It is about 1.5 miles to the lighthouse. An alternative coastal path is signposted at the lighthouse end. I tried to follow it but it is badly waymarked. Halfway back I lost the waymarks altogether and the path vanished. I ended up walking across a bog, which thankfully was completely dry at the time of my visit, and through bracken and heather. I did eventually find the car again but only because I had a map with me and I have a good sense of direction. I think the coastal path is the original one. However given that it would be boggy for much of the year and that the waymarks are few and far between, my advice would be to go back along the gravelled path.

Scalpay Village

Cafe Bistro

Mural on the side of the Café Bistro

Scalpay Harbour

Scalpay Harbour and Fire Station

Penguin waiting for a bus

Scalpay School Craft Village

Former dental clinic - closed in 2018

Old School

Community Transport Bus

Scalpay Play Area

I have never seen a children's playground, which is closed on Sundays. Presumably Sabbatarians rule over Scalpay. It seems a shame for the children.

Looking north towards Scalpay Village

Eilean Glas Lighthouse

The buildings adjacent to the lighthouse are currently in a derelict state but there was a notice on the windows about a potential restoration project - subject to funding being secured.

A beautiful striped lighthouse

Foghorn and Lighthouse

First lighthouse

Looking up inside the first lighthouse

Plaque on the first lighthouse

Eilean Glas Lighthouse

Exhibition and Bothy at Eilean Glas

Scalpay Free Church of Scotland

- one of two on the island - the other one is called Free Church of Scotland (Continuing). The two churches have apparently fallen out at a national level. A helpful resident who noticed me looking puzzled as to why there are two almost identically labelled churches a few hundred metres apart, tried to explain the difference between the two churches. However I can't now remember what he told me.