Isleburgh Youth Hostel, King Harald Street, Lerwick
Shetland was first inhabited
at least 5,500 years ago. Norse settlers arrived in the 8th Century and
ruled it from Norway from 1195-1469. It was annexed by Scotland in
1472, as King Christian I of Norway was unable to raise the dowry for
the marriage of his daughter Margaret to King James III.
Lerwick
The name Lerwick means "Muddy Bay" in Old Norse. It only became the capital town in the 17th century. Before this time Scalloway was the principal town of Shetland. Lerwick has a natural harbour sheltered on the east side by the island of Bressay. The population of the town is currently around 7,600, which is about a third of the total population of Shetland. Lerwick's main shopping street - Commercial Street - is narrow and stone flagged.
The name Lerwick means "Muddy Bay" in Old Norse. It only became the capital town in the 17th century. Before this time Scalloway was the principal town of Shetland. Lerwick has a natural harbour sheltered on the east side by the island of Bressay. The population of the town is currently around 7,600, which is about a third of the total population of Shetland. Lerwick's main shopping street - Commercial Street - is narrow and stone flagged.
Fort Charlotte in Lerwick was first built in 1665 for Charles II during wars with the Dutch. It was attacked and burnt by the Dutch in 1673 but was repaired in the 1780s and named after Queen Charlotte, the wife of George III. It has also been a prison and a Royal Navy training centre.
The excellent and free Shetland Museum is located in Lerwick, as is Mareel: a cinema and arts and music venue. The Shetland Textile Museum is housed in the Böd of Gremista, which is on the coast a mile north of Lerwick.
Lodberry at Bains Beach, Lerwick
Lodberries were originally buildings where boats could be brought alongside for loading or unloading.
Lodberry, Lerwick
(Perez's house in the Shetland TV drama series)
RNLI shop, Commercial Street, Lerwick
Lerwick Harbour
Lerwick Harbour
Mosaic mural, Lerwick Harbour
Town Hall, Lerwick
Jubilee Flower Park, Lerwick
Who says you can't have a traditional flower garden this far north?
Jubilee Flower Park, Lerwick
Hay's Dock, Lerwick
This used to be the centre of Shetland's fishing industry.
Lodberry, Commercial Street, Lerwick
Lodberries were originally places where boats could be brought alongside for loading or unloading
Jubilee Flower Park, Lerwick
Who says you can't have a traditional flower garden this far north?
Hay's Dock, Lerwick
This used to be the centre of Shetland's fishing industry.
Lodberry, Commercial Street, Lerwick
Lodberries were originally places where boats could be brought alongside for loading or unloading
Clickimin Broch
This is located a mile SW of Lerwick. It is an Iron Age broch tower with secondary buildings. There is no admission charge to visit.
Shetland Textile Museum at the Böd of Gremista
Central Mainland
Scalloway was Shetland's capital until the 17th century. Its harbour is protected by Trondra and Burra. It is so sheltered, that it even has a few full sized trees - a welcome sight to a southern English visitor on such a treeless archipelago! I take the sight of trees for granted and only really appreciate them when I travel to places that are too windswept to have them.
Scalloway Castle is a fortified tower house built by the cruel and corrupt Earl Patrick Stewart with forced labour in 1599. It was used as a garrison by Cromwell's troops during the English Civil War. It is free to visit but you have to collect a key from the neighbouring museum or the hotel.
The Shetland Bus was an operation using fishing boats, which sailed between Shetland and Norway during the Second World War, to assist the Norwegian resistance in their fight against Germany, which had occupied Norway in 1940. They took secret agents, radios, arms and ammunition to Norway and returned to Shetland with refugees. A base was set up in Lunna on the NE coast of Shetland Mainland in 1941 but it was moved to Scalloway in 1942. A slipway was built in Scalloway to repair and service the boats. It was named after Olav, Crown Prince of Norway and he paid a visit to Scalloway in October 1942. Many of the fishing boats were captured, sunk or lost in bad weather, so from November 1943 until the end of the war, three US Navy sub-chasers were used instead of fishing boats.
Scalloway Museum (small admission charge), which is open during the summer months, is located in Castle Street and tells the history of the town and its people. It also has an extensive section covering all aspects of story of the Shetland Bus operation.
Weisdale has the largest area of trees in Shetland. Weisdale Mill was built in 1855 but now houses the excellent Bonhoga Gallery and Café. The church down the road from the mill has a small but perfectly formed community garden, which is open to the public.
Scalloway was Shetland's capital until the 17th century. Its harbour is protected by Trondra and Burra. It is so sheltered, that it even has a few full sized trees - a welcome sight to a southern English visitor on such a treeless archipelago! I take the sight of trees for granted and only really appreciate them when I travel to places that are too windswept to have them.
Scalloway Castle is a fortified tower house built by the cruel and corrupt Earl Patrick Stewart with forced labour in 1599. It was used as a garrison by Cromwell's troops during the English Civil War. It is free to visit but you have to collect a key from the neighbouring museum or the hotel.
The Shetland Bus was an operation using fishing boats, which sailed between Shetland and Norway during the Second World War, to assist the Norwegian resistance in their fight against Germany, which had occupied Norway in 1940. They took secret agents, radios, arms and ammunition to Norway and returned to Shetland with refugees. A base was set up in Lunna on the NE coast of Shetland Mainland in 1941 but it was moved to Scalloway in 1942. A slipway was built in Scalloway to repair and service the boats. It was named after Olav, Crown Prince of Norway and he paid a visit to Scalloway in October 1942. Many of the fishing boats were captured, sunk or lost in bad weather, so from November 1943 until the end of the war, three US Navy sub-chasers were used instead of fishing boats.
Scalloway Museum (small admission charge), which is open during the summer months, is located in Castle Street and tells the history of the town and its people. It also has an extensive section covering all aspects of story of the Shetland Bus operation.
Shetland Bus Memorial, Scalloway Harbour
Scalloway Castle
New Street, Scalloway
Weisdale has the largest area of trees in Shetland. Weisdale Mill was built in 1855 but now houses the excellent Bonhoga Gallery and Café. The church down the road from the mill has a small but perfectly formed community garden, which is open to the public.
Community Garden at Weisdale Church
South Mainland
In 1978 we had a guided tour of Sumburgh Head Lighthouse on the southern tip of the island, which in those days had not been automated, so we were shown round by one of the lighthouse keepers. The lighthouse was automated in 1991. Sumburgh Head is a good place to see puffins from May to July.
Sumburgh Head from Jarlshof
There is a Crofthouse Museum at Boddam. Buildings on display include a mid 19th Century croft house, barn, byre and watermill. The man who showed us round in 1978 told us to mind our step, as the floor was all "shiggly shaggly". Apparently this is a Buckinghamshire dialect word meaning "irregular" but why a Shetlander would be using it I don't know but it is a great description for an uneven floor! When we visited in 2013 the custodian was more interested in telling us his views about the EU. 
Sumburgh Head
Looking south from Greystane towards Sumburgh Head
Sumburgh Head Lighthouse and trig point
Puffins at Sumburgh Head
Puffins at Sumburgh Head
Orca model, Sumburgh Head
Sumburgh Head Lighthouse
Beach at West Voe, Sumburgh
Grutness Beach
Crofthouse Museum
Watermill, Crofthouse Museum
On islands that are short of trees, old boats are often recycled as shed roofs.
Jarlshof is Shetland's version of Orkney's Skara Brae. It has ruins of buildings dating from the Bronze Age through the Iron Age and Viking period on to the early 17th Century. It was named Jarlshof by Sir Water Scott. The site was exposed after a storm in the late 19th century.
Jarlshof
Jarlshof
Jarlshof - looking south east towards Sumburgh Head
Jarlshof
Old Scatness Broch and Iron Age Village, Sumburgh
The site was first discovered in 1975 when Sumburgh Airport was expanded. Sumburgh Airport is the main airport for domestic flights. In order to drive to it you have to drive across the end of the runway, which felt a bit weird, although there are warning lights. The airport is surprisingly large and has a small café but I wouldn't recommend it, as I was served gone off milk in the cup of tea I had.
Recreated wheelhouse, Old Scatness
Iron Age village, Old Scatness
Quendale Mill was built in 1867 and is open to visitors for a small fee. The watermill was built in 1867 by the Grierson family, who were lairds of the Quendale Estate. The mill was in use from 1868 until 1948. It ground mainly oats and bere harvested from as far away as Fair Isle and Whiteness. The mill has an overshot waterwheel.
Quendale Watermill
West MainlandIn 1978 we went to the Walls Agricultural Show, which is still a major event in Shetland's social calendar. When we visited in 2013 Walls was much quieter. Walls is pronounced locally as Waas (rhymes with cars).
The village of Skeld has a marina and in 2013 had a cheese factory (the only one on Shetland), which also had a small cafe. Excellent cheese and a friendly proprietor. By 2017 the cheese factory had closed down.
Walls
Staneydale 'Temple'
This ancient monument is located near Walls. It is a Neolithic (about 4,000 years old) hall with ruins of houses, field walls and cairns. It is the largest stone age structure in Shetland.
Scord of Brouster - Neolithic house near Walls
Scord of Brouster - Neolithic house near Walls
Chancel arch of St Mary's Kirk, Sand
This is a ruined pre-Reformation chapel. According to legend it was built by sailors from the Spanish Armada, in thanks for their deliverance from shipwreck on the island Kirk Holm, which is located a mile south of the bay at Sand.
Da Boatie House, Da Gairdins i Sand
This is a ruined pre-Reformation chapel. According to legend it was built by sailors from the Spanish Armada, in thanks for their deliverance from shipwreck on the island Kirk Holm, which is located a mile south of the bay at Sand.
The village of Sand is also home to the most delightful garden we visited on Shetland. It is called Da Gairdins i Sand. It is free to visit but they welcome donations. Over 30,000 trees have been planted, along with many shrubs and flowers. It is a sheltered and tranquil place to spend an hour or two.
Da Gairdins i Sand
Da Gairdins i Sand
Da Gairdins i Sand
Pink sand at Rea Wick Beach
Michaelswood at Aith was planted in memory of Michael Ferrie. It is a delightful place to spend an hour or 2. The winding path zig-zags up the hill and on the way there are philosophical quotations to read and ponder on. There are seats on the way for you to rest, think and admire the views. There is also a display of large model dinosaurs and other prehistoric animals.
Entrance to Michaelswood
Inside Michaelswood
Dinosaur in Michaelswood
Dinosaur
Mosaic seats and Bob the Builder at Michaelswood
Hut at Michaelswood
Sabre-toothed cat
The village of Aith (pronounced Eid - as in the Islamic festival) is home to Britain's most northerly lifeboat station, which opened in 1933.
Aith Harbour
Northmavine
Mavis Grind is a narrow isthmus, which joins Northmavine to the rest of Mainland. It is so narrow that it is technically possible to throw a stone from the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean.
Ronas Hill is the highest point on Shetland at 450 metres.
Mavis Grind - Geowall, Gateway to Northmavine
The coastal scenery at Eshaness is stunning. The rocks are volcanic and there is a blowhole to look at called Hols o Scraada, lots of stacks and stumps offshore and a storm beach at Grind o da Navir where rocks have been hurled up many metres from sea level on to the cliff top by violent storms. Just inland at the Loch of Houlland you can see the remains of an iron age broch.
Tangwick Haa Museum on the Eshaness peninsula has exhibits about the history of Northmavine and its people. It is open in the summer months.
Storm Beach at Eshaness
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| Eshaness |
Lighthouse at Eshaness
The lighthouse was built in 1929.
The lighthouse was built in 1929.
Ollaberry Church
Hillswick Beach
Hillswick
The wonderfully named Drongs from the excellent Braewick Cafe
At last a cafe that was actually open and one selling delicious freshly baked scones!
Unusual geological seats outside the Braewick Cafe
Vidlin is a village in the Lunnasting area of Mainland. It is the departure point for the Out Skerries ferry (and the Whalsay one when the wind is blowing too strong and in the wrong direction to use the less sheltered Laxo). The village is centred around the sheltered harbour of Vidlin Voe. Close to the ferry terminal at Laxo is The Cabin Museum. This is a small museum, which specialises in maritime history and war memorabilia.
Hillswick Beach
Hillswick is a pleasant little village and on the day we visited it was sheltered from the bitterly cold wind. The largest building is the St Magnus Bay Hotel. This large wooden building was originally a pavilion, which was prefabricated in Norway and erected at Glasgow's Great Exhibition in 1896. It was re-erected in Hillswick in 1902. Rare examples of cutch kettles can be seen at the water's edge. These were formerly used to preserve sails and nets for fishing boats. Da Bod in Hillswick is the oldest trading place in Shetland. It was built as a Hanseatic trading post. It is currently a charity shop to raise money to care for orphaned otters and seals. There was at one time a café as well but when we visited the lovely lady who runs it was just providing tea or coffee and biscuits. As there isn't another cafe in the village, this was very welcome. The village shop is well stocked and provided us with a tasty if somewhat unhealthy lunch of pasties and cakes!
The wonderfully named Drongs from the excellent Braewick Cafe
At last a cafe that was actually open and one selling delicious freshly baked scones!
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| Dore Holm from Stenness |
Ruined Fishing Lodges at Stenness
Delting, Nesting and Lunnasting
The haaf (deep sea) fishing industry flourished here in the 18th and 19th centuries. Men rowed out to sea in open rowing boats called sixareens. They stayed out at sea for several days until they had caught enough fish.
Fishing Lodge at Stenness Beach
Dore Holm from Stenness Beach
Vidlin is a village in the Lunnasting area of Mainland. It is the departure point for the Out Skerries ferry (and the Whalsay one when the wind is blowing too strong and in the wrong direction to use the less sheltered Laxo). The village is centred around the sheltered harbour of Vidlin Voe. Close to the ferry terminal at Laxo is The Cabin Museum. This is a small museum, which specialises in maritime history and war memorabilia.
Lunna Kirk
St Margaret's Church was built in 1753 and is the oldest church still in use in Shetland.
Inside Lunna Kirk
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