Wednesday 9 March 2011

Island 28 - Jura, Inner Hebrides

I visited Jura for an afternoon in August 1979 and for a day in September 2012.  

In 2011 the population of Jura was 196.  The people are well outnumbered by the red deer, who roam over the hills.  There are over 5,800 of them.  Deer stalking is a popular 'sport' in season - August to December.  A few stags on the island, known as cromie (crooked) stags have a shape of antler, which is unique to Jura.   A small herd of deer chose to cross the road in front of my car as I approached Tarbert. Thankfully I was driving very slowly, as the road surface was very rough.  The island is divided into 7 estates - Ardfin, Inver, Jura Forest, Ruantallain, Tarbert, Ardlussa and Barnhill.  Jura has also been famous for its cattle since the 1700s.  Otters and golden eagles can be seen but I didn't see any.  The Jura stoat is a sub-species of the mainland stoat but I didn't see any of these either.

Most of Jura is inaccessible by car.  The only metalled road on the island runs 25 miles round the south coast from Feolin and ends at Lealt, about two thirds of the way up the east coast. The road is single track with passing places all the way and the surface is reasonable as far as Craighouse but then deteriorates.  The section between Lagg and Tarbert is particularly appalling - lots of small potholes and patched up potholes - so don't bring your best car or drive too fast!

Jura has 3 mountains, known as the Paps:  Beinn an Oir, which is a Corbett at 785 metres and means mountain of gold; Beinn Shiantaidh, which means mountain of the kyle and Beinn a'Chaolais, which means holy mountain.  They are composed of quartzite.   Jura has 115 miles of coastline

Eric Blair (aka George Orwell) lived at Barn Hill an isolated cottage at the north end of the island from 1946-49 and it was there that he wrote the novel 1984.

The Corryvreckan Whirlpool caused by tidal flows and an underwater pinnacle is located between the north end of Jura and the South of Scarba.  Proper whirlpools like Corryvreckan are very rare features globally and this is the only notable one in the British Isles.

There is a car ferry from Port Askaig on Islay to Feolin on the west coast of Jura.  In September 2012 the fare for a driver and a car was £16.40 return.  There is also a passenger ferry from Craighouse to the Tayvallich on the mainland.

There is one distillery on the island at Craighouse, which is also the main settlement on the island.  A hotel, the only shop, the island's community centre, public toilets and a café/bistro are also located here.  The Malteser slice in the café was absolutely delicious.  A passenger ferry to Tayvallich on the mainland runs from Craighouse harbour.

There is a string of small islands protecting the harbour at Craighouse - Eilean Bhride (Bridget's Island), Pladda (flat island), Eilean nan Gabhar (Goat Island), Eilean nan Coinein (Rabbit Island) and my personal favourite Eilean Diomhain, which means Useless Island!

The gardens at Jura House were until recently open to the public but the new owner has decided that he wants them to be private.  Jura House was built in the late 1700s by the Campbells.

 Ardlussa Beach - my favourite place on Jura
A great place to stand and stare and reflect on things.

 
 Craighouse
The village is named after an 18th century ale house Tigh-na-Craig - home of the rock

 
 Three Arched Bridge over the Corran River at Knockrome - built by Thomas Telford in 1804

 Church at Craighouse
There is a free exhibition of historical photos of Jura in the room above the church - well worth a visit.   The church was built in 1777 and renovated in 1922.

 
 Caigenhouses
 Formerly known as Mariners' Row because it originally provided homes for retired mariners at Craighouse.

 Craighouse

 Craighouse Distillery and Hotel

 Bronze Age Camus an Stac Standing Stone at Cnoc Charraigh on the SW coast

Feolin

 Ferry approaching Feolin from Port Askaig


Cottages at Lagg

 Inverlussa - cows enjoying a trip to the seaside!

 Paps of Jura from Calmac Ferry

 Paps of Jura

 The island's only shop and Community Centre - at Craighouse

Standing stone at Tarbert

 Tarbert

 Tea on the Beach at Inverlussa
There is a walkie-talkie in a plastic box on the table.  I think the idea is that you use it to order some tea and cakes, which then get delivered to you from one of the local houses.  However there were no instructions or menu when I visited, so I didn't make use of this unusual tea room.  However the cows were enjoying their tea on the beach!

 West coast to the south of Feolin

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