Thursday 3 March 2011

Island 7 - Harris, Outer Hebrides

Purists will no doubt argue that Harris and Lewis are one island but as the locals consider them different enough to give them different names, that is good enough for me.  The terrain of the 2 islands is very different.  Harris is mountainous while most of Lewis is very flat and composed mainly of peat bog. The east coast of Harris (known as The Bays) is very rocky and resembles the moon, while the west coast has some absolutely stunning beaches. 

The two main settlement on Harris are Tarbert and Leverburgh but neither is large enough to be called a town.  Both have ferry terminals: the Berneray ferry departs from Leverburgh and the Uig ferry leaves from Tarbert.  Tarbert has a handful of shops, a distillery, a secondary school/public library and a cafe but it doesn't take more than a few minutes to walk round the town centre.


Isle of Harris Distillery, Tarbert

Harris Tweed Shop, Tarbert


I first visited Harris with my parents and brother in 1977.  I returned in September 2006 and again in June 2016 and June 2018.

Clisham/An Cliseam is the highest point on the island and also the highest point on the Western Isles, at 799 metres above sea level.

About 4 miles north of Tarbert a single track road heads west off the A859 and runs 14 miles to Huisinis (it is pronounced HOOZANISH). You have to come back the same way but it is well worth the effort, as there are several interesting places to look at on the way, including an old whaling station, a remote tennis court and a stately home. Your reward at the end of the road is a beautiful beach of cream sand and views across to the island of Scarp.  There is a car park at Huisinis but it isn't very large.  I was told that the road can get clogged up with campervans in the summer.  The road is narrow but there are plenty of well marked passing places.

Huisinis 

 Chimney of the Old Whaling Station at Bunavoneadar 
This is located about half a mile west of the junction with the A859.  It wasn't permissible to explore the site when I visited in June 2016. The whaling station was set up by a Norwegian family in the early 1900s.  It was bought by Lord Levehulme in the early 1920s and remained in the ownership of his company until it closed in 1929.  Dead whale were processed here before the useful parts were shipped off to Glasgow.  The whaling station re-opened in the 1950s for a few years.

 Old Whaling Station Buildings

 Bunabhainneadar Tennis Court
 - is this Britain's most remote tennis court?  There was no one playing when I drove by.  Playing tennis here is banned on Sundays - the Sabbatarians rule!
 Amhuinnsuidhe Castle on the road to Huisinis

 Traigh Huisinis

 Scarp from Huisinis

Traigh Huisinis

South West Harris


Ruined Chapel at Rubha an Teampaill, Northton

An Taobh Tuath (Northton)

Croft 36 Shack at Northton
In this little hut you can buy a selection of pies, bread, cakes, tarts, quiches, soup and ready meals.  It is unmanned - you put your money in an honesty box. It's great!

West Coast


 Luskentyre Beach
This beach has apparently been voted one of the best in the world.  It wasn't looking its best when I visited on a very overcast day but was still stunning.

 Luskentyre Beach on a busy day - there were at least a dozen people on the beach!

 Luskentyre Beach

Looking north from Seilebost towards Luskentyre

 Traigh Iar at Horgabost

Macleod Standing stone at Horgabost with Taransay in the distance

Horgabost

 Traigh Iar, Horgabost

Scarista Beach

Scarista Beach


Rhenigidale

        Rhenigidale Youth Hostel
The youth hostel at Rhenigidale is part of the SYHA network but is owned by the Gatliff Hebridean Hostels Trust:
 http://www.gatliff.org.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=10&Itemid=6  There was no road to Rhenigidale until 1989.  The only way to reach the village before this was by sea or by a footpath called Postman's Path, which leaves the public road at Urgha near Tarbert.

 
 Rhenigidale

 
Postman's Path near Rhenigidale

Rhenigidale

Rhenigidale Hostel

Abandoned village of Gearraidh Lotaigear
This village is located to the west of Rhenigidale.

Ruined house at Gearraidh Lotaigear

Rhenigidale

The Bays - East Coast of Harris

  
 Drinishader on the east coast of Harris


Start of the Golden Road near Miabhaig

Geocrab

Ob Leasaid and Manish

Ob Leasaid and Manish

Signpost at Finsbay

Multicoloured rocks at Boirseam in the evening sunshine

Sheep waiting patiently for a bus near Miabhaig


Rodel

St Clement's Church at Rodel in the far south east of Harris is the only church with a rectangular tower in the Western Isles.  It was built by the eighth chief Alexander MacLeod of Dunvegan and Harris and contains his richly-carved tomb. 

 St Clement's Church at Rodel

St Clement's Church, Rodel

Grave of Alex MacLean of Rodel who outlived 2 of his 3 wives

 Ancient grave slabs in St Clement's Church

 Alexander MacLeod's richly carved tomb

No, your eyes do not deceive you, this is indeed a public toilet in Rodel.  It has the distinction of being the only one I have ever been in that has its own visitors' book - propped up on the sink in this photo! 

Colourful sheep at Rodel

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