A lifetime of Islands: Island 43

Monday, 14 March 2011

Island 43 - Westray, Orkney

The name Westray means western island in Old Norse. In 2011 the island had a population of 588, which is a slight increase on the 2001 Census figure of 563.

I visited for a day trip in September 2000 and returned for another day trip in June 2015. Westray has an airport in the north east corner of the island and is also served by a roll-on, roll-off vehicle ferry from Kirkwall to Rapness in the SE corner of the island. I took my car on both occasions because the island is too big to explore on foot. On the way over in 2015 the car deck of the ferry was completely full with cars, a mobile library, a tanker, a motorhome and a digger. Loading a car ferry is a skilled business - I was very impressed at how they managed to pack all the vehicles in, so that no one was left behind in Kirkwall. On the way home the ferry wasn't quite so busy, so the cars weren't packed like sardines.

Westray has been occupied for 5,000 years. Broch mounds can be seen at Knowe of Queen Howe and Knowe O'Burristae Broch. At Quoygrew north of Pierowall there is a Viking archaeological site. Most of the island is currently grazing land for sheep and cattle. There is some fishing for crabs, lobsters and white fish.

The main settlement is at Pierowall, which has a good harbour and a passenger ferry runs from here to Papa Westray. The ruins of St Mary's Church and the island's heritage centre are in Pierowall, as are 2 general shops and an excellent café with an unusual name - Haff Yok. I can recommend the toasted sandwiches and the tiffin - both served with a smile. There is a hotel at Pierowall and a couple of B&Bs, a hostel and several self-catering properties on the island. There is a fish and chip shop at Broughton, which is round the bay from Pierowall.

At Tuquoy the roofless remains of Cross Kirk, a 12th century Romanesque church can be seen. The path from the car park at Ness of Tuquoy was very overgrown when I visited in June 2015 and one point I almost stepped on a fulmar sitting at the bottom of a wall. I narrowly avoided being vomited on by the bird - this is apparently not an experience to be recommended!

Noup Head is an RSPB reserve. The sea cliffs are a good place to see sea birds in the nesting season. There are guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, fulmars, puffins and gannets. The road to Noup Head is only metalled as far as the farm of Noup. After that it becomes a rough track. I chose not to drive along it but was passed by several ordinary cars, as well as 4x4s and minibuses. There is a gate at one point, which was very difficult to open and a field of very curious cows to negotiate. Gentleman’s Cave below North Hill is named after 4 Jacobite lairds, who hid there in 1746. It is now too dangerous to visit it.

The lighthouse at Noup Head was built by David Stevenson in 1898. It was the first lighthouse to use a system of mercury flotation in the revolving carriage. It was automated in 1964.

Noltland Castle is a ruined Z plan tower house built 1560-1573 but it was never completed. It was built for the ruthless Gilbert Balfour.

Fitty Hill is the highest point on the island at 169 metres. The primula scotica (Scottish primrose) grows there and on Skea Hill.